Clearing up the confusion

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Clearing up the confusion

Post by JWP on November 5th 2012, 8:40 pm

I've read through a lot of the threads from the projects section and taken some notes, but somewhere that went awrye so I thought I'd share what I've gathered and maybe you guys can set me strait.

1. It seems that if you use Rustoleum or Interlux, the methods and reducer, hardner, and mineral spirits ratios are the same. From what I see it seems that the best ratio is quart paint: pint hardner or reducer: pint mineral sprits (hardner or reducer depends on drying requirements?). I've seen the numbers across the board but it seems 2:1:1 is the "lowest common denominator.

2. Rolling on clear doesn't necessarily do much other than give you a small amount of protection over your color coat and maybe help smooth out tape lines if you have stripes/graphics

3. Rustoleum seems to not have the UV protection that Interlux does, is this founded or just assumed?

4. I've read that the hardner seems to make the paint more durable and gives it more gloss, but the penetrol reduces it to make it flow better and that the tow cancel each other out. Is any of that true and if so does it apply to the increased glossyness and hardness.

5. What does "tipping in" the paint mean?

I think thats all the questions I have for now. I haven't even started yet, I'm still reading through and admiring the work of all you guys working on your projects and those that are completed.

Thanks

Jason
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Re: Clearing up the confusion

Post by Samilcar on November 6th 2012, 9:17 am

"tipping in" is using a foam brush after the paint is applied to help level the paint and eliminate any small air bubbles that haven't popped. In my project, all air bubbles popped within 30 seconds, and the paint self leveled nicely by itself, so tipping in would have just been extra work for no real gain.
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Re: Clearing up the confusion

Post by JWP on November 6th 2012, 9:20 am

Samilcar wrote:"tipping in" is using a foam brush after the paint is applied to help level the paint and eliminate any small air bubbles that haven't popped. In my project, all air bubbles popped within 30 seconds, and the paint self leveled nicely by itself, so tipping in would have just been extra work for no real gain.

Thanks, I looked at your thread again after I made this post and your formula is certainly different than some others. Did you have to play with it to get it to lay down good and not have many bubbles?

Thanks
Jason
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Re: Clearing up the confusion

Post by Samilcar on November 6th 2012, 10:57 am

No, I didn't do any experimenting at all with the mix, I just picked it because it seemed to work well for someone else. Thankfully, it worked out well as far as bubbles and self leveling. The only downside to using acrylic enamel reducer in the mix is that the paint laid out so thin that it didn't cover very well. After 5 coats, I was starting to get nervous, because everything was still showing through! It was only after the 8th coat that it started to really cover, and even after the 12th coat, there are still some primer spots that just barely peek up through the paint. If I had to do it over again, I would have primered the entire car before laying down the color coats.
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Re: Clearing up the confusion

Post by JWP on November 6th 2012, 11:00 am

Thanks, my brother and I were just discussing primer. I am starting to consider a different color and from some searches it looks like the primer or under coat may have an impact on the final color more so than good bc/cc paints. I guess i need to get my colors and some different primers and make a test panel.
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Re: Clearing up the confusion

Post by retired plumber on December 24th 2012, 4:44 pm

Yes, primer does effect the final color, especially if it is just in spots. The entire car should be one color for a under coat. If you want a light color for your final then use light gray or white primer. If you are going black then under colors don't really matter, just go for it.
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