2001 Mitsubishi Mirage

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2001 Mitsubishi Mirage

Post by 88k5jimmy on April 4th 2013, 9:03 pm

Please see thread below for background info:

Pre-project thread questions <--- click here

The weather has began to warm up a little to where I was getting restless and I have finally gathered all my tools "I think" I'm going to need. I knew the body wasn't in too bad of shape, however, it does have a rebuilt title and I knew there was some hidden surprises on the passenger side rear quarter, just past the passenger door because I found a crack in some body filler. I decided to tackle that first since I knew it would require a lot of my time. Here is what I found:



Here is what I found after getting after it with a 3M heavy stripper:



I know the bare metal where the drill holes are will need massaging and I plan on using a stud welder since there is no way to get behind that area and the filler was cracking to begin with so I know the metal isn't where it needs to be. My question is, how far do I need to go in stripping the old filler/primer/paint? I'm also afraid the filler goes into the door jamb.

There are a few more pics of the area here:

01 Mirage <--- click here.
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Re: 2001 Mitsubishi Mirage

Post by 88k5jimmy on April 13th 2013, 9:42 pm

Did some more work on the Mirage. Continued with the 3M heavy stripper all the way to the wheel well and up the quarter panel some more. I was able to pull the interior panel out and discovered more filled drill holes near the wheel well and some damage above the wheel well. I decided to remove all the filler by the wheel well and fix the metal correctly. A few of what I found:





After removing all the filler, I was able to see how many previous drill holes there were and how bad the panel felt out of shape, compared to the other side. So, I broke out the stud welder and started welding and pulling. The stud welder works really well and is very easy to use. The combination of the larger studs and the thin sheet metal made the larger studs hard to work with so I stuck to the smaller studs:



I probably used about 80-85 studs and I'm curious to see how straight I got the panel compared to how it was. I guess when I lay the filler on it I will find out. I decided not to disrupt the filler that is over the wheel well to pull the sheet metal because it's holding now and there are no signs of cracking like the spot at the bottom of the quarter panel. After I felt I got the panel to shape as best I could I grinded off all the studs and began to block sand the quarter panel with 80 grit. This panel has original primer, paint, filler, primer, paint, clear coat...thus my choice of 80 grit. I wanted to get all the unnecessary layers off and the clear coat had started to peel on top anyway.

Block sanded with 80 grit:


Block sanded with 180 grit to remove 80 grit scratches:


DA sanded with 400 grit to remove 180 grit scratches:


I also ended up removing a lot of the clear coat, especially in places where I just didn't think it looked right after all the sanding and because I wanted to remove as many of the unnecessary layers I could. I ended up going to primer in some areas, filler in some areas and bare metal in other areas. I cannot feel any raises between layers on the panel and am pretty sure I got it pretty flat. Luckily the only filler I will apply on this panel is where the previous repair is.

Haven't decided how I am going to fill the holes. Ideally I would like them welded, however I don't have access to a mig nor know how to use one. So I'm still weighing my options.

More pics here:
01 Mirage <--- click here
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Re: 2001 Mitsubishi Mirage

Post by 63Falconconvert on April 14th 2013, 6:52 pm

Those holes will weld up easy with a mig welder. Call some of your local body shops & ask them if they can spot the holes for you. I bet they will weld up all of them for $20.

If you can't get them welded then I would use something like Lab Metal to fill the holes. It's rock hard & water proof. If you use bondo it will absorb water and blister your paint.

Hope this helps. Keep up the good work! thumbs up
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Re: 2001 Mitsubishi Mirage

Post by 88k5jimmy on April 14th 2013, 10:42 pm

More work on the Mirage today. Tried spot welding/brazing the holes but the sheet metal is so thin in that area it wasn't turning out well and warping the metal so I decided to use Bondo Glass. Reasons for going the Bondo Glass route, it's Sunday and no body shops are open to get the holes mig welded and I am still driving this car and working on it at the same time. I didn't want to leave the exposed metal and old filler and bare metal spots exposed to the elements because it would be another couple days before I could get to a body shop because of my work schedule. I've used it before and for the size of the holes, I think it will be ok. Would I have rather had the holes welded up, for sure. I even think the previous repair just used Bondo because of the play-doh type resemblence on the inside sheet metal.



After the Bondo Glass dried I applied the first round of Bondo Ultimate:


Followed by block sanding with 80 grit and second coat of filler:


Followed by block sanding with 80 grit and third coat of filler:


After blocking again with 80 grit, I was out of daylight and needed to primer the bare metal, old filler and my repair area so I can drive it tomorrow morning:


For only blocking with 80 grit I think my first attempt at body work turned out pretty good. I still have a couple areas that will require filler and one area where I need to address the body line by the fender well. However there are some pinholes in the filler which I didn't think I would get with the Bondo Ultimate. Should I get a glazing putty to fill these because I know they will be visible throught the primer and paint.

Body work is intense....
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Re: 2001 Mitsubishi Mirage

Post by 63Falconconvert on April 15th 2013, 8:17 am

Nice job! Can you get behind the panel and brush on some seam sealer over the filled holes? This will keep the water from getting at the filler. Another suggestion is clean out all of the drain holes.
Body work in very intense. It's only by practice does one get good at it.
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Re: 2001 Mitsubishi Mirage

Post by 88k5jimmy on April 15th 2013, 12:21 pm

Yes, I can get behind the panel and had thought of putting a seam sealer or something over the Bondo Glass to seal it up and protect it from moisture.
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Re: 2001 Mitsubishi Mirage

Post by Tommy Hillbilly on April 17th 2013, 5:58 pm

88k5jimmy wrote:Should I get a glazing putty to fill these because I know they will be visible throught the primer and paint.
I usually just use another few applications of Bondo. One less thing to buy...
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Re: 2001 Mitsubishi Mirage

Post by 88k5jimmy on April 22nd 2013, 9:12 pm

Little update:

Got the low spot filled and the body line by the fender back, which I am pretty proud of. However I need to block one spot with 180 to remove a high "line" if you will. It's hard to see in the pic but it's by the body line by the fender in the 2:00 clock position if the wheel was a clock:



Sanded the rear bumper with the DA and 400 grit, then used spot putty on various areas and re-sanded. It's hard for me to spend a lot of time on the bumper, so I don't know how many applications of spot putty I will use.




I have a question regarding how many coats of primer to use. In the pic above I have just one coat of primer and I can still see the 180 grit scratches. Should I DA the filler with 400 grit and then apply several coats of primer to remove the 180 scratches? I'm not sure several coats of primer will fill all the scratches without sanding the filler again with a finer grit.
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Re: 2001 Mitsubishi Mirage

Post by 63Falconconvert on April 23rd 2013, 8:26 am

180 sctarches are deep. I would try to feather out the 180 scratches with 220 then 320 by hand and then prime over that. Automotive primer in spray cans is just too thin to cover 180 scratches. I used the Rusto Auto Primer in the gallon can and rolled in on. The stuff is really thick and builds nice, sands like butter.
http://www.rustoleum.com/CBGProduct.asp?pid=439

http://www.rustoleum.com/CBGCategory.asp?cid=9
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Re: 2001 Mitsubishi Mirage

Post by 88k5jimmy on April 23rd 2013, 9:11 am

63Falconconvert wrote:180 sctarches are deep. I would try to feather out the 180 scratches with 220 then 320 by hand and then prime over that. Automotive primer in spray cans is just too thin to cover 180 scratches. I used the Rusto Auto Primer in the gallon can and rolled in on. The stuff is really thick and builds nice, sands like butter.
http://www.rustoleum.com/CBGProduct.asp?pid=439

http://www.rustoleum.com/CBGCategory.asp?cid=9

Thanks. Would I need to longboard block sand with the finer grit in order not to disrupt the bodywork lines and panel flatness I already have now or will a hand sanding block/hand sanding be sufficient to remove the scratches and not disrupt the body work I have already done?

Also, if I sand with a finer grit to remove the scratches, I'm assuming the spray can primer will be sufficient? Or can I just use the roll on primer and not have to sand anymore?

Thanks
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Re: 2001 Mitsubishi Mirage

Post by 63Falconconvert on April 23rd 2013, 11:08 am

I would just use a soft 3M sanding pad.

If you use spray can primer, use one of good quallity. Rusto, or Duplicolor. Something that has good fill.
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Re: 2001 Mitsubishi Mirage

Post by 88k5jimmy on April 23rd 2013, 12:10 pm

Thanks. I've been using the Rusto filler primer in the spray can like the one in the link you attached.
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Re: 2001 Mitsubishi Mirage

Post by 63Falconconvert on April 23rd 2013, 12:20 pm

are you doing the car red again?
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Re: 2001 Mitsubishi Mirage

Post by 88k5jimmy on April 23rd 2013, 2:10 pm

Yes, I will be going back with Rusto Marine Topside red. With that being said, the black areas of the bumper will get primered so the red has better coverage.
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Re: 2001 Mitsubishi Mirage

Post by 63Falconconvert on April 23rd 2013, 2:35 pm

good call! Red is a transparent color. Your best results will be if you can prime the entire car.
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Re: 2001 Mitsubishi Mirage

Post by 88k5jimmy on April 23rd 2013, 7:17 pm

I wasn't planning on priming over the existing sanded red, just the areas where there is body work or I sand to bare metal because of body work. As long as I prep and clean the existing red paint, do you think I'll have any problems if I put red over red without primer? I know it may take more coats to fully cover the primer/existing red combination paint scheme but I plan on putting 8-12 coats on.
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Re: 2001 Mitsubishi Mirage

Post by Noah Zarq on April 23rd 2013, 10:04 pm

I had a whale of a time covering gray primer with safety red, and you will do well with 8-12 coats. Took me 10. Maybe the marine stuff is better.
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Re: 2001 Mitsubishi Mirage

Post by 88k5jimmy on April 28th 2013, 10:46 pm

More work to the Mirage today.  Spot filled an area on the passenger rear quarter, sanded the driver side rear quarter and sanded the trunk lid.  I also sanded the driver side front fender similar to the passenger rear quarter.  The clear coat was failing so I decided to get rid of it all and in the process I discovered this....more filler:



Sanded the fender again with 180 grit to remove the 80 grit scratches and took the dents to bare metal since I was close anyway and on went the first round of filler on the fender, drivers quarter panel, trunk lid and rear bumper.



Only took two rounds of filler to get the two fender dents and the dent in the trunk filled.  I used a little glazing putty on a few low areas and pinholes after the final round of filler.  The drivers rear quarter by the tail light had been wrinkled before and I was able to get the majority of it reworked from inside the trunk and I ended up using very little filler, which I am proud of since at one time I thought I was going to have to use the stud welder to get it back straight.  



Sanded all the areas with 220 grit before priming to see if I could see the scratches through one coat of primer.  I only see very few and am pretty sure once I sand the filler with 400 before primer, I won't have any scratches through the primer.  I am also going to primer the entire car.  I have one coat of primer on this area and you can see the filler below the primer where the two dings were.  I'm assuming the primer will cover the filler with mutliple coats.  I plan on rolling on the primer because I have found I hate masking off more than sanding and filling.



01 Mirage <--- click here


Last edited by 88k5jimmy on June 22nd 2013, 9:15 pm; edited 1 time in total
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Re: 2001 Mitsubishi Mirage

Post by 88k5jimmy on May 7th 2013, 10:10 pm

Small update on the Mirage. Weather has been rainy (not complaining) so I haven't gotten as much work done on the Mirage as I should have. After attempting to sand the hood with 80 grit by hand to remove the failing clearcoat, I went an bought some 80 grit hook-it pads to go on the DA and knocked out removing the clear coat from the hood.

Before:


After 80 grit DA, 180 grit block, 220 grit block to remove scratches:


Yep, you guessed it...more existing filler. Filler in the front and on the passenger side by the fender. I knew there was some on the front due to peeling paint but you can see how much once exposed. Luckily there was only one minor spot I needed to use spot putty so no body work for the hood besides sanding.

Temporarily primered the hood to keep the moisture etc off the bare metal and existing filler. This is my only concern. What causes the primer to do this:


Not enough sanding?

01 Mirage <---click here
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Re: 2001 Mitsubishi Mirage

Post by 88k5jimmy on May 10th 2013, 8:54 pm

Small update since I won't get any time to work on the car this weekend. Sanded the passenger front fender, eliminating the failing clearcoat and pretty much duplicating what I have done on the other panels that the clear coat was failing on, DA with 80 grit, sand with 180 and 320 to remove previous grit scratches. Filled two small and one really small ding and sprayed some temporary primer on to keep the elements off the filler and bare metal.




01 Mirage <--- click here
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Re: 2001 Mitsubishi Mirage

Post by 88k5jimmy on May 13th 2013, 9:28 pm

The panels that haven't been repainted are the easiest to work with. No failing clear coat and no multiple layer paint/clear coat and orange peel. Sanded the roof and pillers with 400 grit. Found a couple dings I knew were there and they were shallow enough to use spot putty instead of filler. Also sanded the drivers door, which has original paint, with 400 on the DA. I have to pull the door panel, weatherstripping and mirror in order to get 100% sanded but I knocked out the majority of it. There will be a little filler work and metal massaging on the drivers door. Hopefully I can work out the ding on the body line and put a very thin skim coat of filler over the entire door. It is wavy/rippled when you look down the side.





01 Mirage <--- cleick here
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Re: 2001 Mitsubishi Mirage

Post by Ian67 on May 15th 2013, 1:27 am

Great progress so far! I'm always looking forward to the next set of pictures on this one.

Ian
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Re: 2001 Mitsubishi Mirage

Post by 88k5jimmy on May 19th 2013, 7:08 pm

Removed the door handle, weatherstripping and mirror in order to finish sanding the door. I was able to get a little of the door ding on the body line out but not all of it because of the interior door structure and limited amount of room. On went the filler and the sanding started and continued and continued some more.





Also did some filler work on an area that I had been forgetting about by the drivers rear quarter/tail light area. Primed for element protection. Only the passenger door left, which will require almost complete strip because I know it's been repainted and has multiple layers.

01 Mirage <--- click here
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Re: 2001 Mitsubishi Mirage

Post by Noah Zarq on May 20th 2013, 6:30 am

That's really looking good!
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Re: 2001 Mitsubishi Mirage

Post by 88k5jimmy on May 25th 2013, 6:29 pm

Tackled the passenger door. 80 grit DA to remove the failing clear and multiple coats of paint. Guess what's underneath...not surprised though:



You guys know the drill, 80 grit DA, filler, 80 grit block, 180 grit block, 220 grit block, primer for element protection.





I think I have figured out how body shops knock down the filler before blocking. I was ready to be done block sanding with 80 grit so I got the DA and knocked the high spots down and then blocked with 80 grit. Following this method would have saved me a lot of time..luckily I figured this out on the last panel doh

Anyway, with this being the last panel requiring body work, I think I am ready to start priming. My plan is as follows:

DA sand with 400 over everything, removing temporary primer and sanding all the scratches that are still visible through the temp primer (mainly around the edges of some panels). Wipe with Denatured Alcohol, wipe some more and wipe some more. Finish it off with a tack cloth and start rolling on the primer. Any hints, tips or suggestions? I am using the Rustoleum filler primer and a high density foam roller.
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Re: 2001 Mitsubishi Mirage

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