1st timer

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1st timer

Post by burakol on June 9th 2013, 4:39 pm

Car: 1989 Toyota Celica GT-S

Pictures when I first got her.



Rusted sunroof, peeling clear coat... other than that, body is pretty straight with very minor dings.

Started experimenting and worked on the sunroof initially. Pretty please with how I worked on the rust spots. I did not have the actual build pics but this is how it looks now... unfortunately, the metallic spray bomb did not work for me. So now, I have decided to roll the paint.


Wanted to start sanding the peeling clear coat today, but then started to rain... I decided to use 100 grit paper on palm sander.



Question: Since the clear coat is peeling, do I need to sand down to metal or just enough to smoothen it?
Oh and the brown spots, those are remnants from the rust dissolver I used when I treated the surface rusts... I will also need to sand and smooth it as well.

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Re: 1st timer

Post by burakol on June 9th 2013, 6:08 pm

What are your thoughts about doing the roll on job panel by panel instead of doing the whole car after all the body work has been done? Since this is my daily, it will be very challenging to finish the bodywork without having the untreated metal unexposed to the elements... i am 80% done with sanding off the peeling clear on the hood, but since I ran out of time today, the sanded surface is exposed and we are expecting some rain overnight.

OR

Should I at least, apply some primer once I am done sanding a panel?

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Re: 1st timer

Post by Noah Zarq on June 9th 2013, 7:14 pm

My first rolled paint job was on my daily driver, and I did just as you say I rolled one panel at a time. This allowed me to drive to work and I had no problems. Once I had 2 coats on the whole thing I wet sanded the whole car over the weekend, then started on the trunk and each panel. Repeat.
Unfortunately my son destroyed the car before I ever finished.

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Re: 1st timer

Post by burakol on June 10th 2013, 10:42 am

should I use Japan drier or Penetrol if the humidity is relatively high in my area?

Well, the weather sucks today so I think I won't be making any progress today... I was thinking it could be a perfect opportunity to wet sand but I don not want to risk being hit my a lightning... Very Happy


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Re: 1st timer

Post by wantajav on June 11th 2013, 2:24 pm

Actually unlike what some people might think, it won't hurt if some rain gets on bare metal, just sand the light rust back off. Cars rust to pieces from the inside out due to trapped dirt and water/salt, that outer surface on a roof or a hood exposed to the sun/air will never rust through.

The penetrol is for better leveling out less roller prints = less sanding.

Rustoleum Smoke Gray would look nice on that car! Least it is not huge like a van.

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Re: 1st timer

Post by burakol on June 12th 2013, 2:06 pm

if the clear is peeling off, should i strip the whole panel or sanding the peeling areas be enough?

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Re: 1st timer

Post by cac1967 on June 12th 2013, 6:27 pm

I would sand each panel with 180 grit, prime the panel then sand the primer with 220 grit then prime again. before painting I have sanded with 320 grit wet the 400 dry before paint . hope this shed's some light for you!!!!thumbs up

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Re: 1st timer

Post by burakol on June 12th 2013, 6:52 pm

i primed the hood today... i did 2 coats... im pretty pleased since i know i still have to wetsand it anyway... whew, i thought i had to sand to metal... good relief... 

i'll post pics in a few... i've also sanded the roof so I can prime it by tomorrow...

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Re: 1st timer

Post by burakol on June 13th 2013, 12:03 pm

looks like the only thing i can do today is to sad due to the weather... btw, is penetrol used as the paint thinner, or you just add it after thinning withineral spirits? about how much penetrol should i use if my palnned mix ratio is 50/50?

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Re: 1st timer

Post by Tommy Hillbilly on June 13th 2013, 8:57 pm

If you're using a light color, then mix the whole job's paint at one time.  Penatrol will tinge the paint with its own brownish color.  I used white, and definitely noticed tinging...

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Re: 1st timer

Post by burakol on June 14th 2013, 8:33 pm

ill try without it first then see how it turns out... i gad no progresstoday but i did manage to get both fenders off... the corners of my fenders are rusted pretty bad but since this is not a restoration project, i just have to reuse and treat whats left... hopefully by tomorrow i have primef the whole car.

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Re: 1st timer

Post by burakol on June 15th 2013, 6:18 pm

any tips and tricka on removing double sided adhesive on the cat as well as old decals? other than those, i should be able to final sand the car for priming... then i cpuld work on the small parts i took off the car...

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Re: 1st timer

Post by Tommy Hillbilly on June 15th 2013, 10:12 pm

An eraser wheel is the thing for removal of decals and the like.

A decent body supply place should have them.  You chuck it onto your drill, and it obliterates the decal without marring the metal underneath.
If you're using one on urethane or something soft, then you need to be careful.

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Re: 1st timer

Post by burakol on June 16th 2013, 2:03 pm

thanks. i did chck it out but for the price, ill try to do other means first.. ill try to blower heat method and see if that works... also, how do you guys get to paint the door jamb and other areas that are difficult to paint using a roller? since i may be mixing my own color, buying a spray can is not an option...

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Re: 1st timer

Post by burakol on June 17th 2013, 9:50 pm

painting bumpers... are there any specific step i need to do? do i still need to prime it with a flexible primer? or can i just go straight on rolling the rustoleum paint on it after a good sand? also, is thinning necessary for the bumpers as well? i am planning on mixing some catalyst to  paint the body... sine the catalyst will make the paint harder, should i not use it when painting the bumper?

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Re: 1st timer

Post by Samilcar on June 18th 2013, 8:05 am

Treat the bumpers the same as the rest of the car. Even with an added catalyst, regular alkyd enamel is still very flexible.

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Re: 1st timer

Post by burakol on June 18th 2013, 12:29 pm

thanks. its pouring outside and i have laid my primer yesterday. im pretty sire it is nit fully cured yet. i only have a tiny garage and all the stuff i took out from th car is in the garage. will there ba a drastic effect if my car is rained out and the primer is not fuly cured yet?

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Re: 1st timer

Post by Tommy Hillbilly on June 18th 2013, 4:07 pm

how do you guys get to paint the door jamb and other areas that are difficult to paint using a roller?

You're asking the wrong guy...Twisted Evil

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Re: 1st timer

Post by burakol on June 19th 2013, 8:12 pm

ill probably try to roll/brush the door jambs. if im not pleased, ill just buy a spray... i dwcided to just use thw charcoal gray rustoleum instead of mixing my own color... 

btw, how long do you usually wait till u roll the next coat? since im thinning and using some catalyst, should i still follow what the can says o recoat after 24hrs? or should dry touch be ok?

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Re: 1st timer

Post by Tommy Hillbilly on June 19th 2013, 11:21 pm

I'd probably do whatever the catalyst directions say.  Once the catalyst is mixed in, it is in control of the mixture.

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Re: 1st timer

Post by burakol on June 22nd 2013, 12:32 am

Thanks. I started sanding my primer with 500 grit wet and pretty much smoothened all panels but i can still see some very faint orange peel... Do i really need to make sure that all orange peel be sanded down to get a smooth color cover? Will those faint spots reflect once i lay my color coat? Overall, the orange peel are not visible to the naked eye unless you really look for it...

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Re: 1st timer

Post by burakol on June 22nd 2013, 12:21 pm



Rolled my firs color coat and this is what i got for the first coat... Did i mix too much spirit? Was the catalyst too much?  

Do i need to redo this or go on to the next coat?

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Re: 1st timer

Post by burakol on June 22nd 2013, 7:20 pm

decided to roll the second coat on top using a 2:1 ratio with 2.5ml of the catalyst... im still having the bubbles but i figured that it depends on how heavy/soaked the roller brush is... now i really understand that the thinner it goes, the better... 

this is how my hood looks like after two coats... very thick and obvious brush marks and uneven coating... i will surely do a lot of sanding before i can apply the 3rd coat... 




then i am slowly getting the technique... 
this is a shot of my fender after two coats.. much better than the hood... 




one coat on the roof... 


plan is to get all the initial coat sanded and smoothened tomorrow so i can add the next two coats using thinner 1:1 ratio and 2.5ml catalyst, and making sure mr roller is not soaked before rolling it on the surface... 

i have numerous bubble pop marks and it is giving the paint some texture.. orange peel is very manageable but the bubble pop is ticking me off...

any suggestions about the bubble issue?

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Re: 1st timer

Post by street_ride14 on June 23rd 2013, 12:48 am

go over it again with the roller after you lay down the coat, keep going over it as the paint dries and you'll see less and less bubbles in the paint as the roller smoothes the surface

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Re: 1st timer

Post by burakol on June 23rd 2013, 5:32 am

I think i used too much catalyst on the hood and it flashed quickly and disabling the bubbles to pop... Ill try to wetsand with 500 and hopefully it levels out.

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Re: 1st timer

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