81 F100 Custom

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81 F100 Custom

Post by 81F100 on June 13th 2014, 2:13 pm

Hello All,

I've been spending a lot of time on this website recently, and convinced myself I could do it, too. I had thought about waiting until I had something more appreciable to show before starting a thread. But then I thought that might be information overload for me and for you all. So I'll start at the beginning and post as I go. I'm hoping to have most of the painting done this summer/fall, but with everything else in our lives that might be a difficult task.

First off, my truck is a hybrid of 1981 and 1982 F100/150 parts. The 81 was sold to me by my wife's grandfather for $1, and I picked up the 82 out of Arkansas for $350 and sold the 302 for $250. The 81 being a Michigan truck from day 1, it had a lot of unusable metal. But I wanted to keep the interior and engine/trans (or the 'soul' of the truck Wink ). Basically everything else came from the 82. The emblem on the 82 said F100 but I'm not convinced. The frame was solid vs the Swiss cheese of the 81 (weight savers), the brakes were bigger, and there was an extra leaf spring. I'm not a huge car guy, so I hope I don't get shellacked for not knowing why. I only assume it wasn't really a F100.

Here is a pic of how I found her 7 years ago...
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So I won't bore you with all the details, but for the next 2 years I did several swaps of frames and body parts, engines, etc. Basically I had both trucks down to nothing but a frame and wheels a couple times. This is what I have today...


The cab/bed/frame are from the 82. The fenders/hood/tailgate and all the interior/mechanicals are from the 81. I kept the 'good' fenders and hood off so that I could prep/paint while still driving it. The cab was prepped and spray bombed 4 years ago just to preserve it. The interior floor has the roll-on bedliner, as well as the bottom of the exterior cab and firewall. Both front quarters were drilled apart, bedliner-ed, then welded back together. Sorry all my early photos are from a crap phone...
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Oh, and I forgot to mention that I rolled the bed-liner on the frame. I like bed-liner...
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After reassembling, the truck sat in my father's woods for 4 years while I finished college, started a life, and finally bought a house last year. Now I finally have it back and have somewhere to work on it. Unfortunately... some very friendly mice made it their home for those 4 years...... ahhh 

So now for the paint... I've started testing my technique on the hood. I sanded down the original paint (to metal in a few high spots). I added some filler, wet-sanded with 180, then 320. I added a thin guide coat of Rustoleum Primer Surfacer over my filler areas to get a better idea of the high/low spots (which worked really well in my opinion). Now I have my first real coat of primer on the top of the hood. I'll likely do the second coat this evening, sanding possible on Saturday evening or Sunday. I thinned the primer surfacer 10:1 for the first try but it wasn't enough. I didn't want to thin AT ALL, but this stuff dries SO fast that I thought I should. Now I plan on thinning 5:1 to give myself a more even finish and longer application window. Oh, and I'm thinking with Penetrol thanks to T. Hadley and many others who vouched for it.

gotta love that Arkansas clay...



" />





FYI - I tried Bondo Glass but didn't like it and went back to using normal light filler. It seems VERY strong, but applying it was a huge pain. You can't shape it or smooth it or anything during application like the normal Bondo light filler. The Bondo Glass is like trying to spread molasses.

I'm planning on doing Royal Blue... and possibly a second low-body-line color of charcoal grey. I haven't decided, but fortunately if I don't like it IT IS EASY TO CHANGE!!!

I'll keep you posted. I'm not sure how many people still frequent this site (activity seems low) but I'll share my experience in case it can help others.  My name is Adam by the way...

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Re: 81 F100 Custom

Post by 81F100 on June 13th 2014, 2:16 pm

BTW... gotta love proofreading after posting. Spelling errors galore... (sp?) Wink

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Re: 81 F100 Custom

Post by 81F100 on June 16th 2014, 7:30 am

So I indeed rolled a second coat of Rustoleum Primer Surfacer Friday night, reduced 5:1 with Penetrol. I also hung the hood from the ceiling and spray painted the bottom with self-etching primer. I didn't roll because I had no interest in trying to sand/polish that side (I don't think many people would).






The next day, when dry, I moved the hood back to my sawhorses to start wet sanding the primer on top. I started with 320 grit in a 2'x2' section with those smallish rubber blocks. I gave up after about an hour because I realized that I was going to have to remove basically all of the primer. The reason:



I'm not sure how well you can see in the photo, but I had 'pinholes'/orange peel or roller marks that went as far down as the original paint. Meaning to get the hood smooth, I have to remove basically everything. I think this happened because I still hadn't reduced the primer enough. It was literally drying as I rolled. I plan on trying 2:1 tonight and possible 1:1 if it is still drying to fast.

So now I have a question for anyone who used Rustoleum Primer Surfacer... did you reduce? How much? Also, did you apply 1 coat then sand, or multiple coats then sand? I think applying a second coat with my ratio was a bad idea. It didn't have any time to flow how and just make the peaks/valleys worse.

So then I broke out the random orbital and 220 grit paper dry. It left some 'ripples' that I can slightly feel with my palm, but I expected that. I left a bit of primer almost everywhere, and I'll wet sand it smooth with a block (probably tonight). I think I'll just use 180 grit with a very light touch to save time, since I'm going to be applying more primer anyways. The primer, if reduced enough, should flow and fill in the scratches (I hope).





The most noticeable 'ripples' from the random orbital were on the front contour, but this block sands really nicely so I'm not too worried.

Updates to come soon. I appreciate your feedback on the Primer Surfacer!

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Re: 81 F100 Custom

Post by 81F100 on June 18th 2014, 7:07 am

I wet sanded last night with 180 grit to take out all of the waves left by my orbital sanding. It went pretty well, and almost everything seems flat. Here is a pic showing one half wet sanded (right), and the other half waiting to be sanded (left).


I took a couple pics of obvious high spots for future reference. I figure when I get enough primer on the hood, I'll wet sand until these high spots start to show (but not enough to get to bare metal again). Then I could always apply one more thin coat of primer, wet sand with 400 or 600, and I should be good.








Here is the pic of both halves wet sanded. The left still has more primer remaining than the left. It is hard to tell in the pic, but even the primer on the left is razor thin and I could see the original paint starting to bleed through everywhere, so I thought it was 'good enough'. I can overdo it sometimes, and I read often on here that you have to choose when 'enough is enough'. We'll see how disciplined I can be with that motto.


Then I mixed my Rustoleum Primer Surfacer with Penetrol 2:1 respectively because of my earlier problems. It did flow out nicer, but I still think I am too thick. Here is a pic of the orange peel I am getting with the new mix. It is MUCH better than the other thicker ratios, but I'm still not happy with it. I am getting a lot of roller marks from where my painting areas overlap. The paint is still drying to the touch in about 3 minutes, which is way to fast for me.


The orange peel can be made out (hopefully) in the above pic. Here is the overall coverage of a 2:1 ratio, 1 coat.


Here is the reason that I am still not happy with the ratio:


Literally 2-3 minutes after rolling a section, I will try to roll the section next to it. If my roller (no pressure, only the weight of the roller itself) overlaps the previous section, it picks up the fresh paint. I need an even longer drying time so that I can roll an entire piece without it drying.

I plan on wet sanding today or tomorrow with 400 (or 320 if 400 isn't doing the trick) wet. Then I'll mix up more primer 1:1 and give it a go. My other option is to add some mineral spirits to the mix. I thought Penetrol and MS did approximately the same function, but I could be wrong.

If you have any suggestions, please let me know.

Oh, and then I have to leave for good ole' Germany on Sunday evening for a 2 week business trip... so don't look for any updates from me after Sunday  Crying or Very sad

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Re: 81 F100 Custom

Post by 81F100 on June 18th 2014, 7:11 am

Oh, and if you are wondering. I wipe down everything after wet sanding with water first, then a shop towel soaked in Denatured Alcohol. I appreciate feedback, even if you tell me that I'm doing everything wrong  doh

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Re: 81 F100 Custom

Post by wantajav on June 18th 2014, 9:26 pm

My suggestion is:

Forget the primer, the original thread way back in 2006 said Rustoleum can be applied over bare metal. If you feel that weird about it just hit it with a few shots of rattle can primer.

Mike

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Re: 81 F100 Custom

Post by 81F100 on June 19th 2014, 7:32 am

Hi wantajav! Thanks for reading and commenting! I'm happy to see that I have some views  Very Happy. My original intention with the primer was to try to fill some of the low spots without body filler, since they are really just 'waves' and not low spots. That's why I didn't want to reduce it at all to start. I should've, like you said, just used some sandable/high build primer from a spray can. I can usually spray from a can without much OP. Now the problem is, I've already spent $50 on the Primer Surfacer, so I would really like to put it to good use. It's just a bit frustrating because other people on here successfully used this stuff and never mentioned any problems. Actually, for most threads the priming was kind of a foot note like "primed and now ready for my first coat". I guess my priming step is just going to take longer with more thin coats. I'm guessing probably 4. I plan on wet sanding tonight and then laying down a 1:1 reduced coat. I haven't decided if I'm going to reduce with more penetrol, or if I'll reduce with MS instead. Many on here reduced with both, but those who reduced with penetrol said that they would never do this process again without it, which is why I started with that as my reducer. Thanks again for following and for commenting!

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Re: 81 F100 Custom

Post by Tommy Hillbilly on June 21st 2014, 12:52 am

Mineral sprirts are the way to go. Nice truck, I like the side exhaust. I didn't know that they still used the F100 nomenclature as recently as '81-'82. Rolling chassis looks good, are you rocking a 300/4.9? I had a '94 with the EFI 4.9.
No aspect of your build is boring here.
I'd be tempted to do a Lightning clone...

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Re: 81 F100 Custom

Post by 81F100 on June 21st 2014, 3:22 pm

Thanks for the kind words! I have to admit there have been many times over the past 6 years that I've looked at the truck and thought "what am I doing...". I hope having her all one color can ease my anxiety...

So I didn't get much done in the last 2 days, but I am now ready for another coat of primer. I sanded everything (lightly) with 180 grit wet to knock down the high stuff. Then I went over everything with 320 wet to get it smooth. Here are the pics after wet sanding. I plan on rolling a coat with 2:1:1 primer, penetrol, and MS tonight when it is cool, or tomorrow morning. It is 80F now and I want more drying time, so I hope cooler temps will help with that. I leave for Germany tomorrow, so I was hoping to get 2 coats on before I leave so I can return and get straight to wet sanding.







Looks nice and smooth to the naked eye. As long as the next 2 coats dry 'flat', I have a good feeling about this. If I get some primer on before I leave I will try to post a pic. Otherwise, I will be back in 2 weeks! Later everyone!

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Re: 81 F100 Custom

Post by 81F100 on June 21st 2014, 3:29 pm

Ah sorry, yes it's the 300 4.9! So far I love this engine... sat for 4 years on 2 separate occasions (8 years total) without running, and without much effort fires up! Though this winter I do have a lot of work to do. I need to rebuild the carb, do some timing work, tune, and possibly tear the whole thing apart... I have significant blow-by in cylinder #4 and a simple oil stop-leak had no effect. I'm guessing bad rings. I want to do a leak-down test sometime just to confirm, but there is little doubt in my mind what the problem is. I'm not a motor-head yet, so it takes me a while to figure these things out.

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Re: 81 F100 Custom

Post by 81F100 on June 21st 2014, 9:27 pm

Yet another update. Correction: Yet another disappointing update...

So I started mixing my 2:1:1 primer, penetrol, MS ratio... but I discovered after adding half of the MS that I have the 'odorless' MS... NOT GOOD! I'm sure you've seen the negative feedback from others on here about the 'odorless' MS, but I am here to confirm one more time. DON'T USE ODORLESS MS!

I thought "what the hell, it's mixed. I should at least try it". This is because I had 2 quarts of the primer in the mix, as well. About $25 worth... so I was at least going to try it. I quickly found out that it wouldn't work. Some sort of reaction made the paint separate from the MS almost immediately and turned the paint into a glue. You can kinda see in the pic below the 'vertical' streaks... ya that's the paint turned to glue. It would literally leave a kind of 'sticky string' between my roller and the hood as I pulled the roller away. NOT GOOD!



So then I put aside all of that mix into an empty paint can that I will dispose of later, and mixed up a small amount of the primer and penetrol only (1:1). I then rolled the rest of the hood except for the part I had tried and failed to roll with the MS mixed in. These are the results:





You can see in the above pic, that even with 1:1 the primer doesn't lay evenly at all. It clumps up and almost separates from the penetrol. Here is a pic of my 'initial mixing' with a paint stick. I always mix completely with an attachment on a cordless drill. You can see that the primer is very clumpy.



So now for a question for those of you who know a lot more about paint than me. Is it the paint, or the user??? At this point I'm leaning away from 'user' and more towards 'the paint'. I'm guessing either the paint is too old (it had a lot of dust on the shelf, which honestly concerned me when I purchased it). Or my guess is that this type of primer, "Rustoleum Primer Surfacer", just isn't a good candidate for thinning. Perhaps it is a 'high-build' primer with lots of 'material' mixed in to give it better sanding performance (hence the clumps). Anybody know?

In either case. I plan on rolling a second coat in the morning. If it looks like poo and sands like poo when I get back from my trip, I have two ideas. I haven't decided which to go with yet. 1) I might try some actual enamel (mixed 1:1) on the hood to see what I get. 2) I might just spray bomb the primer.

Honestly I want to avoid overspray in my garage if I can. I thought about trying the actual color enamel to see how it lays compared to the primer. That will give me a better answer to my question ' is it the paint or me '. I've read almost every project thread and I have not seen pics of paint laying like my primer is, or heard anyone complain this much haha.

I guess I have to learn the hard way. Thanks for following, and thanks for the suggestions. You might want to send some encouragement my way because I'm pretty sure I wasted $50 on the gallon of primer...

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Re: 81 F100 Custom

Post by 81F100 on June 22nd 2014, 11:09 am

Quick update. I rolled the 2nd coat of Rustoleum Primer Surfacer mixed 1:1 with penetrol this morning. I'm still not happy with how it's rolling, but it looks like I at least have something to sand when I get back from Deutschland...

Here is a pic of the coverage of the 2nd coat.


Here is a close up. The OP isn't all that bad. I know the coverage shouldn't be good for the 2nd coat, but it still looks 'clumpy' to me, instead of an even thin coat.


I did notice one thing; my roller really loads up after the 1st half of the hood. This might contribute to the weird coverage. I did notice when I first started rolling with a fresh roller, I actually had bubbles to pop (like I've read in so many projects). But by the end there were none, only poor coverage. I hope this doesn't happen with the colored enamel... I don't want to go through 100 rollers to paint my truck. I think it's just this type of paint that loads up, because I didn't read anyone talk about using so many rollers. In fact, many said that they could reuse a roller if they sealed it in a ziplock bag after each use.

Here is a pic of how much my roller loaded up with paint after one coat:


Not good in my opinion. I really think that contributed to the poor coverage. Well... I gotta go pack now. See ya'll in 2 weeks...

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Re: 81 F100 Custom

Post by LARRYBOMB on June 24th 2014, 4:19 am

Nice truck. Why not just spray primer the bare metal spots? I have a '90 Ford Ranger I'm wanting to paint this summer. It has faded factory paint and some scratches and minor dings but no rust to deal with. I'm gonna do all my body work and probably spray primer the spots I use any filler on and any bare metal spots then start painting.

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Re: 81 F100 Custom

Post by Tommy Hillbilly on June 28th 2014, 10:24 am

Maybe run the primer through in a paint shaker. I would try more mineral spirits and less Penatrol.

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Re: 81 F100 Custom

Post by 81F100 on June 30th 2014, 10:22 am

Greetings aus Deutschland!

Well I've watched more football (soccer) in the last week with the World Cup than I've watched in my life prior. But drinking beer always accompanies watching soccer here, so I'm okay with that... I'm looking forward to returning home on Saturday and getting back to work on the hood. I was at the Autostadt in Wolfsburg yesterday (it's the VW assembly plant and museum, somewhat similar to the Henry Ford museum in Detroit). I couldn't help but focus my eye on all of the different paint jobs... some were smooth as glass, and others had orange peel like you wouldn't believe!

I still haven't made up my mind on what I will do after sanding next... will I try rolling again with a different mixture, rattle can spray paint, or skip and just move on to the enamel. Hopefully I can make up my mind soon.

Thanks for following and for the suggestions. I hope to have a more interesting update a week from now!

Oh, and here is the master of disaster wearing a Porsche hat in the gift shop. I told my wife that they gave the hat and shades for free with my Porsche purchase. Somehow she didn't believe me, and only laughed at me...  smash 


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Re: 81 F100 Custom

Post by Nomad427 on July 5th 2014, 3:30 pm

Hi Adam,
I am new to this forum and primarily a hoser,meaning I like to spray and only have done roll and tip on boats including a 37ft Islander sail boat that turned out looking like it was sprayed so keep the fact that I have never rollered a truck or car in mind when you read my options. I am inclined to suspect the paint as you are looking at the paint on that stir stick. Are you stirring just the unthinned primer with the drill attachment? I don't think I would use it on the thinned paint, just the primer in the can which would have a lot of solids in the bottom. If you are determined to primer the panels for consistent color coverage I would spring for a fresh quart of new primer and compare. A lot of that $50 gal is already ending up on the floor of the garage.I just don't see how you can get a consistent smooth coat when the paint is as separated as it looks to that paint stick. Regarding over spray if you have a Harbor Freight store located near you could duct tape one of their cheaper blue tarps on the floor and I use painters plastic available at the big box stores that come in rolls to line the walls. Very cheap and easy to tack it up near the rafters and just let it drop to the floor and roll it back up the walls loosely after spraying each time. I actually use thumb tacks to do this. Like has already been suggested I would spot primer your bare metal and bondo areas and move on to rolling on some color coats. Your body work looks great and if you haven't already get a long board for sanding all those big flat areas and save the small block in your picture for the smaller spots. Again I have noticed Harbor Freight has a couple inexpensive ones. I use both a stiff and flexible one. You'll cover a lot more area and end up with less ripples and flatter surface. That's my 2cents.
Love the history behind grandpa's truck. Although I am a GM gal for the most part I like the F100's and looked for one but in the end decided to go with my dads Dodge D100. Good luck and keep the pics coming.

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Re: 81 F100 Custom

Post by 81F100 on July 9th 2014, 3:39 pm

Good Afternoon!

For the sake of progress, I spray painted the rest of the hood with a can of 'self-etching' Rustoleum primer. I was getting tired of messing around with the roll-on Rustoleum Primer Surfacer. Maybe I will try it again later on a different panel with a different mix, since I still have half a gallon left.

Here is the spray bomb result:


I wet sanded the entire hood with 400 grit:


The self-etching Rustoleum spray paint actually sanded quite well! It loaded up the paper a bit, but not too bad. Also, not sure if it's my technique, or the spray paint in general, but I had almost no orange peel to sand out. Mostly I was sanding just to get a dull/even finish. (I'll claim it's my spray painting technique!  loco )

However, I did burn through the primer to bare metal in one spot:


And I had another problem spot... If you recall from an earlier post - I accidentally mixed the primer-surfacer with ODERLESS mineral spirits (still a terrible idea). The mixture turned into some sort of hellish glue and left streaks. These streaks weren't sanding smooth with the 'light' wet-sanding/400 grit.

If you look closely at this pic, you can see the dark 'streaks'. Yea... that's the glue mixture I rolled on  wrong 


So I decided to sand this down far enough to make it smooth with 320 grit wet


In the above pic you can see the much lighter colored primer-surfacer start to show through where these high streaks were. Needs more sanding...


THERE WE GO!  cheers 

So then I decided to spot primer from a rattle can those places I went down to bare metal


and #2


So tonight (if I have time) I will sand these places dull to match the rest. I want to stop at the hardware store and purchase some 'normal' mineral spirits for the color enamel mix. I also thought about buying some 'Japan hardener' because I read some people had good luck with it. Any input on that?

Later

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Re: 81 F100 Custom

Post by Pacermike on July 11th 2014, 9:24 pm

I hope you eventually get rolling high-build primer figured out. I was hoping to do that on my project at some point for the same reason; filling in subtle waves without having to skim with filler. Good luck!

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Re: 81 F100 Custom

Post by 81F100 on July 12th 2014, 7:43 pm

Hey Mike! Sorry that I can't offer much real advice on rolling primer right now. My only advice for now is: try to buy 'new' primer, try 'normal' mineral spirits for thinning, roll when the temperature is cool. If those don't work, I'd advice spraying with a sandable primer from a can. I'm not convinced that the Rustoleum Primer Surfacer is a good candidate for rolling, but I will continue to try on the next panels. For the hood, I just gave up and sprayed on primer because I was anxious to see some color other than 'primer gray'  Sleep 

So today I finished wet sanding the spots I had to spray more primer with 400 grit. To touch up some of the body ridges and areas that had just a bit of OP left, I wrapped a green/yellow kitchen sponge with 400 grit and went over these areas lightly. I didn't want to do very much for fear of sanding waves into the hood. But it worked really well for the ridges (so I didn't burn through the primer). The rigid rubber block wasn't good for these spots. The sponge was also nice because it kept a constant flow of clean water while sanding.

Then I wiped the hood down with the old/dirty sanding water. Then washed with new water and a dab of dish soap. Then washed down with new/clean water and a rag. After it dried, I wiped the hood down with a shop towel soaked in denatured alcohol. When that was dry, I went to putting on some color.

One question: do you have to wait very long after wiping down with alcohol before painting again? I didn't really wait at all, and I'm wondering if this can cause me problems?

My first color enamel mixture trial:    2:1:1 Rustoleum Royal Blue, Mineral Spirits, and Penetrol

Everything seemed to go well. Though there were a LOT of air bubbles while rolling. I used a 6" high density foam roller. The "better" brand at the home depot.

Here is a picture of the bubbles immediately after rolling:


Here is a picture of the bubbles after 're-rolling' with a 'dry' roller. The roller wasn't really dry, but all of the 'loose' paint had been rolled off. It was re-rolled with only the weight of the roller doing the work/no pressure.


Is this normal? If not, what is my problem?

Then I proceeded to roll the entire hood. I borrowed my wife's hair dryer at the end, set to low heat and high speed, to try to pop the remaining bubbles. It worked really well. But next time I will have the dryer in hand from the beginning, popping bubbles as I go. I found that the areas I rolled first were difficult to pop bubbles. It seemed that they were already starting to set.

Here are a bunch of pics of my FIRST color coat:








In the next pic, you can see what the popped bubbles left behind:


Looks like OP to me, or the beginning of it. I wonder if they will 'flow out' any overnight. I guess I will see tomorrow. The hood looks a lot better from 3 feet away in the pics than when you get up close, but I am quite pleased with the first coat. Tomorrow afternoon I can hopefully do the second coat. I think most people wait around 48 hours to wet sand? Of course that depends on weather/etc.

I'm also glad I used a darker primer. It made the coverage of the first coat look amazing from a distance  lmao It is hard to tell, but up close the coverage of the first coat looks comparable to other projects where 50/50 mixing was used.

When finished I put the roller in a ziploc bag with a cap full of mineral spirits. I'm hoping I can reuse it, but we will see. I have extras just in case.

Oh, I have a question for you all. When you bought 800 grit paper, was it actual paper? Or was it some sort of 'scuffing pad'. My local autozone only carries the scuffing pad. I think I'd rather use paper, so I'll have to look around elsewhere unless the scuffing pads is what everyone else used with such great results?

I'll probably post some more pics of the second coat. If you guys/gals have any questions or suggestions, please don't hesitate.

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Re: 81 F100 Custom

Post by 81F100 on July 13th 2014, 6:17 pm

Rolled the second coat today. I kept a hair dryer next to me, and after rolling each section I would immediately pop all bubbles (low heat, high speed). It worked really well, and seemed to let the paint flow out better once the bubbles were popped.

Here are some pictures of the second coat. The true Royal Blue is starting to show.






In this next pic you can see what the true finish is like. It's almost like a million paint-drops just flow into each other for each coat. Is this the experience of everyone else as well?


So now I'm going to wait for the paint to dry before wet sanding. I might put the hood out in the sun tomorrow while I am at work. Until next time!


Last edited by 81F100 on July 15th 2014, 4:14 pm; edited 1 time in total (Reason for editing : Not sure why the second picture doesn't show up correctly... tried to fix it and failed.)

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Re: 81 F100 Custom

Post by VeggieBullet on July 15th 2014, 3:26 pm

Great progress,
Keep up the good work!

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Re: 81 F100 Custom

Post by 81F100 on July 15th 2014, 4:11 pm

Thanks for the support! I wish the progress was on more than just one piece of the truck  Sad 

I did some color sanding last night with 600 grit wet and my tiny little rubber block. I'm starting to agree with Nomad that I need a longboard. The next time I'm near Harbor Freight I'll have to take a look. I did, however, buy a 'larger' tiny rubber block from the auto parts store last night. I'm hoping it will help a bit. The biggest problem I faced with the small block was the lack of give. I noticed that the paint buildup on the sandpaper is all in the center of the block, and not evenly dispersed on the face. This means only 20% of the block is making contact with the surface of the body... not very efficient. The block I bought last night seems to have a bit more give, and I hope it will make more contact. I will find out tonight.

Here are some pics (I know how people on this forum love pics!) of my color sanding escapade. You will notice that I need a lot more sanding for an even dull finish.












You can really make out the orange peel in the last photo. I've read a lot of comments on how the OP will decrease with each coat, which means it must be true... right? I just don't see how. I guess I will find out. I sure hope it's true because I can't imagine that 1500 or 2000 grit would do anything against this OP.

Oh, and I ordered (yes, I had to order because it's not carried anywhere) 12oz cans of Royal Blue spray paint. I need these to do the underside of the hood, doors, fenders, etc. I'm not going to roll, sand, or any of that. I really need to spray the underside before going to much further on the rolled coats.

More progress to come.

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Re: 81 F100 Custom

Post by 81F100 on July 15th 2014, 8:30 pm

2 posts in one day WHAAAAAAAAT!

To begin, I'll plug 3M. So far I've had the best luck with their sanding blocks and sandpaper. I'd go as far as to recommend it, but it isn't critical I don't think.

So I tried my new slightly bigger sanding block and 600 grit to finish wet sanding the first 2 coats of color. Here is where I decided to call it good 'nuff:




Then on to the 3rd coat of color. This time I tried a NEW mix, courtesy of T. Hadley and his awesome father-son project!

MIX FOR 3RD COAT:      1:1 Rustoleum Royal Blue and Penetrol

I think Mr. Hadley might have used 2:1 but I'm not sure without going back and trying to find it.

I noticed one big difference immediately... LESS BUBBLES.

Here is a picture of the bubbles immediately after rolling (they were popping immediately, as well)


Here are the bubbles (or lack there of) after 'tipping' with a spent roller (no new paint added):


If you go back a couple posts and compare the pictures, you can see that there is a big difference! I really only needed the hair dryer in a couple spots where the bubbles didn't want to roll out. It also seemed to make a much better finish. I didn't notice the "million drops flowing into each other" like I had on the 1st 2 coats.

Here are just some random pictures because I was happy with the finish, and if you are like me... you love seeing other peoples pictures. Though you might be getting tired of seeing this darn hood ( I kind of am... )








Oh, and if you notice in this next pic I shaved my scraggle while in Germany. Much easier to eat without wearing my food haha!






Oh and I followed the same prep steps as outlined before coats 1 and 2, if you were wondering.

Hope the next coat will come tomorrow. Do you want to see pics? I don't know if anything will be noticeably different haha... until then!

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Re: 81 F100 Custom

Post by 81F100 on July 15th 2014, 8:38 pm

Okay 3 posts today...

anyone know if I have to do something to start a new page in the thread? I just noticed that this page is getting really long, and it seems longer than most other pages from other projects. I'm not sure if content prompts the creation of additional pages, of if I have to do something?

Thanks for the help!

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Re: 81 F100 Custom

Post by 81F100 on July 17th 2014, 10:16 am

I put another coat of 1:1 Rustoleum Royal Blue and Penetrol on the hood last night. I used a cap-full of MS in the ziploc bag that I keep the used foam roller in, and I think I used too much MS. The first few rolls of new paint had the same appearance as coats 1 and 2 (BUBBLES EVERYWHERE). But overall, it didn't have much of a negative effect.

Here's me again...


and I would like to say... fish eyes make me sadddd....  frown 


I didn't wipe down the hood with anything between coats 3 and 4. I also made it a point not to touch the hood after coat 3, but apparently some debris fell on the hood that the paint didn't like very much. In the future I will wipe down between every coat to avoid these depressing dimples.

Oh, and I don't know how much I will do between now and Sunday. My wife informed me yesterday morning that I had to update/paint one of our bathrooms before Saturday 3pm because she is having guests... so that's my life after work for the next 2 days.

I should've taken another pic this morning. In the 2 pics above you can see a lot of bumps and OP. Of course it didn't allllll disappear, but most of it flattened out overnight. It's been unusually cool here the last couple days (high 60's low 70's) which has been great for painting. I am starting to see why T. Hadley said he will never roll without Penetrol going forward.

Until next time!

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Re: 81 F100 Custom

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