81 F100 Custom

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Re: 81 F100 Custom

Post by 81F100 on July 17th 2014, 10:32 am

Hey! I think I just realized that 25 posts makes a page... and since this post will be number 26, it should start a new page. We'll see if my theory is correct!

And just so this post isn't completely useless, here are some pics of my steel wheel repaint (spray can) and brake drum/dust cap repaint (VHT paint). I recommend the VHT for just about anything. Though I can't bake it like the can suggests, it seems to dry much harder and higher gloss than the Rustoleum gloss black even without baking:

I kept the old tires on the wheels while painting, then after the paint hardened for a couple weeks I mounted the new ones that you can see in the truck pic at the top of page 1.

Before:


After:


Before:


After:


Before:


After:


Looked much better IMO than before. I had caps for the 81, but like I said, the 82 had different size brakes and a different 5-bolt diameter of the wheels, so the old caps didn't fit. I'm okay with black for now.

Later!

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Re: 81 F100 Custom

Post by betanceiro on July 17th 2014, 2:34 pm

Good job. It's curious for me that being Ford an american company the brake drum are made in Argentina, the country where I was born and where Ford is one of the more important cars companies Laughing

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Re: 81 F100 Custom

Post by 81F100 on July 18th 2014, 7:08 am

Thanks! Yes, many "American" cars aren't as American as many people would like to believe. I always have a little chuckle when I see a "Out of a Job Yet? Keep Buying Foreign" bumper sticker on a vehicle where most of the components, and even the assembly, is performed in other countries. I'm no expert, but I am an engineer at a tier 1 automotive supplier - so I get to see some of the inner workings of these American car manufacturers. Though in this case, I'm not sure if the OE drum was from Argentina since I bought these new a few years ago. Could be, but I can't say.

BTW I remember reading your threads a little while ago. Great work! And thank you for taking the time to view mine  Very Happy

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Re: 81 F100 Custom

Post by 81F100 on July 19th 2014, 8:09 pm

Hello everyone. Just a quick update... I wet-sanded the 4th coat with 800 grit. Then I prepped the hood and rolled the 5th coat, still 1:1. I thought I wiped everything down well but I still noticed a couple fisheyes. Any suggestions? I don't want to sand off the entire coat to eliminate them. Will they sort of fill in with more coats? Thanks for the help. 6th coat tomorrow!

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Re: 81 F100 Custom

Post by Nomad427 on July 20th 2014, 12:59 am

Despite the fisheye issue you must be very pleased with the results thus far. Looks great. After my 1st experience with the fisheye problem I NEVER paint without fisheye eliminator mixed with the paint. Again I only have experience with a spray gun and roll & tip. Hopefully others will chime in but after hours of prep it is cheap insurance. It also is said to enhance gloss and improve flow out. My go to brand is Marson Smoothie that I get from a private supplier but I see it is available through O'Reilly Auto Parts. A little goes a long ways.
On the subject of parts from other countries, no such thing as an American car any more.They're all world cars now,imo and that's all I have to say on that except they all went to #@%* when they stopped making em without running boards and butterfly fenders.  Smile 
http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/MAR5/20231/N1966.oap?ck=Search_N1966_-1_-1&pt=N1966&ppt=C0171

Melanie
P.S. You might want to go to a thrift store and pick yourself up a hair drier of your own to use during painting. Very cheap. Blow it out with compressed air prior to using it the 1st time, they get dusty and linty.

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Re: 81 F100 Custom

Post by betanceiro on July 20th 2014, 2:41 am

Continuing the theme of Ford in Argentina, about 40 years ago Ford made ​​an advertisement in which they showed the strength of the F-100 throwing one from a Hercules airplane in flight. You can see the video here: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xn-QenZhrHM Enjoy it!

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Re: 81 F100 Custom

Post by 81F100 on July 20th 2014, 10:53 am

Thanks, Melanie for the suggestion! I'm guessing it should work for rolling, as well as spraying. After all, the penetrol I'm using is for spraying and it is working wonderfully for rolling! I'll have to give it a try. I might stop by O'Reillys today to see if they have it in stock. Now I just have to figure out what to do about the existing fisheyes, sand them out or keep going and hope they fill in... I am very happy with the result so far! Unfortunately, I think the hood will be the only finished part this year. My wife and I are expecting our second child September 3rd! Thus, my wife likely won't allow any free time I might have to be spent in the garage haha. But if I can get this hood to shine like a new car, all I need is time... The truck has waited over 30 years for a new look, what's one more?

And thanks, betanceiro, for the video! That was wild! I wish they would've shown someone driving it away after the fall. It looked like someone was in the driver's seat, but it's hard to tell.

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Re: 81 F100 Custom

Post by Nomad427 on July 21st 2014, 12:36 am

Congratulations to the the wife and yourself Adam. I kinda avoided the what to do with the fisheye question but I think you know the right answer but if it were me and this early in the game I'd bite the bullet now and sand them out and add eliminator to the next coats to come. I think you could add it to the un-thinned paint and be done with it to avoid having to remember " did I add it" when mixing. I imagine like me you're not after show car / truck paint job but if the rest of the truck comes out perfectly and there is even the slightest hint of the fisheyes that is where your eyes are going to. Secondly, I always try to make the hood look as perfect as possible because that's the view the driver and any passengers see driving down the road. Again any imperfection there and that's where your eye is going to gravitate instead of keeping your eye on the road. Smile 

P.S. Any store that carries automotive paint will have a fisheye eliminator in their product line. I used to use Martin Senior from my local Napa store but they stopped mixing paint. Haven't notice any difference,Marson Smoothie just happens to be the product my independent supplier carries and I can get it with a phone call if I run out.

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Re: 81 F100 Custom

Post by 81F100 on July 21st 2014, 7:19 am

Thanks again, Melanie. I didn't have a chance to pick up fish-eye eliminator yet, but I plan on it. You are right about them in that I should sand them out now. After rolling 2 more coats over the old fish-eyes, I can still see a slight divot. I think when I sand next time I will try to sand those couple spots down until the dimple is gone. What's another couple coats?  What a Face 

You are also correct that I don't want a show room quality truck. After all, it is a truck and will be used for truck things every once in a while. But like you said, the hood is what I will always be looking at, and it will likely be what enthusiasts look at when checking out the truck.

Here is a pic of coat #6. It looks about the same as all of the others haha... but this was the first time I could get my camera to focus on the light bulb. I'm not sure if it is because the finish was better, so the camera could recognize something to focus on... or it may just have been the correct overall lighting at the time. Either way, I was happy that I could get it to show up so I took a pic.



I don't know if I'll sand tonight. I might give it another day to harden before sanding. In the meantime, I am thinking about pulling either the doors or the fenders off the wall and starting some body work and prep for paint. We'll see if any other projects pop up before then. Later!

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Re: 81 F100 Custom

Post by 81F100 on July 22nd 2014, 7:45 am

I didn't really plan on doing anything yesterday... until the UPS man delivered my Rustoleum Royal Blue spray paint!

So I went and sprayed a coat on the underside of the hood. It was good timing, because my family and I are going up north for a few days and it will give the spray paint some time to harden. I had a small issue with the primer rubbing off the bottom side where it contacted my makeshift table. Hoping this won't happen much with the color. Here is the before and after:





I know it's not that exciting... just a spray bomb coat. But for the sake of progress pics I thought I'd share. I probably won't have any updates before this weekend. Maybe Saturday evening I can sand coat #6 with 1000 grit and prep for coats 7 and 8!  bounce

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Re: 81 F100 Custom

Post by 81F100 on July 30th 2014, 11:32 am

I put coat #7 on the hood on Saturday. I tried to sand out the fisheyes prior to this coat, but after rolling on the coat I could still see a couple of them quite well. So last night, instead of sanding off 2 or 3 coats in order to flatten them out, I dabbed on some paint specifically on the fisheyes. I'm not sure if it will work, but I'm willing to try. If it works, I would say it is easier than sanding off coats which will have to be repainted. And I figure that sanding down a small high spot is easier than sanding out a low spot. I'll sand these out maybe tonight or tomorrow. I thought about giving it an extra day to dry since the drops are a bit thicker than a normal rolled coat. After I sand out these drops, I'll roll on coat #8, followed by a full hood sanding with 1500 grit wet before coats #9 and 10.

Here are a few pictures on my (hopeful) fisheye elimination attempt:







You might be able to see in the photo, but I let the first drop dry for a bit, then added another drop. As the first drop dried, it layed out and a slight dimple could be seen. This new dimple may well have been above the last layer of paint, which could have been sanded smooth. But for safety sake, I added another drop just to make it higher/thicker. I'll be sure to let you know if my technique worked...

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Re: 81 F100 Custom

Post by 81F100 on August 2nd 2014, 12:23 pm

My fish-eye elimination technique worked really well in 2 of 3 spots, but not so well on the 3rd. When sanding, I decided to stop because I could start to see primer. After rolling on coat #8, the repair spot could still be seen for that 3rd location. The other 2 fisheyes can no longer be spotted. dance  Then I wet sanded the hood with 1500 grit. Inspecting that 3rd fish-eye after sanding looked pretty flat. However, I can still see that it is not quite flat after rolling coat #9 this morning. I'm guessing I'll need at least 3 more coats, maybe 5. And I'm crossing my fingers that with each new sanding job that spot will disappear. If it is still noticeable, I'll sand off more hard work and try again. This particular spot is near the front of the hood, in a spot that is easy to see. Thus, I don't want it!

Does anyone have a recommendation for using a hardener? I thought about using it for the final 2 coats when I'm ready.

What about rolling clear coat? Has anyone tried it successfully? Better end product? Tips or tricks? I'm confused whether the final color coat before clear would still be wet sanded? I can't imagine the final result would have a rich color if you do. Or do you cut and polish the final color coat, like normal, and then clear?

Thanks!!!

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Re: 81 F100 Custom

Post by Tommy Hillbilly on August 4th 2014, 1:53 am

Man, that hood looks killer in the post from July 15!

Get the longest sanding board and paper that you can find.

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Re: 81 F100 Custom

Post by 81F100 on August 4th 2014, 10:06 pm

Yea, I really want a longer sanding board. However, I haven't been anywhere yet that sells them - and I've been to quite a few auto parts stores. And I haven't been in the neighborhood of good ole' Harbor Freight recently. Plus, none of the local stores sell paper for long boards. I think for the other panels of the truck I can order one, but for the hood I'm not sure if I'll get one before it's done.

I rolled on coat #10 tonight. It is surprising how much dust settles on the hood only a few minutes after rolling, and bugs! Still using 1:1 Rustoleum Royal Blue and Penetrol. I've been very happy with the results. I asked O'Reilly's tonight about Marson Smoothie. They said they could order it, and gave me a price. I think I might look online first to see if I can find it cheaper somewhere else. I'd like to use it for the last few coats to avoid any fish-eyes. I also would like to pick up some hardener for the last few coats. I'll let you know what I come up with.

I snapped 4 photos of the 10th coat, just because. I don't know honestly if it looks any different than the coats from a month ago. But I like pictures, and I'm hoping you do too! They are kinda grainy because I need better lighting in my garage.

BTW, it looks like the fish-eyes are nearly gone from my repair!

Man how I wish they were pictures of the whole truck in Royal Blue, and not just the hood.....   Here you go! Please leave more comments and suggestions!!!








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Re: 81 F100 Custom

Post by 81F100 on August 6th 2014, 7:37 am

I was hoping for those with experience to give me their opinion. I'm done with 10 coats of color, and now sanding with 2000 grit wet. I'm not sure how far down I need to sand every time now. The hood is fairly smooth, even without sanding - meaning the orange peel is extremely minimal. I for sure want to sand out any roller marks... and dust bumps/bugs... but at this point is it just preference? Or... after the final sanding job, followed by cut and polish, would you be able to see a difference between the areas that were sanded to a dull finish and those that didn't lose much of their original 'rolled-on' gloss? If I have to sand everything dull to have a uniform end result, so be it... but I'm not sure if this is required?

For instance... in this picture I almost said good 'nuff:



Except, of course, for this spot where you can still see some roller marks.



In your experience, do the little glossy rings show up in the end product if the final sanding job doesn't eliminate them 100%?? Can you see the transition in the end product?

I did end up saying ' not good enough ' last night and giving the hood another round of sanding with 2000 grit wet. This is where I eventually said good enough:



It's not perfect but it's not the final sanding job, anyway.

Here is what that one stubborn fish-eye looks like now. It's still hanging around, but only just. I think after the next 2 coats I won't be able to find it any more.



I'm hoping that tonight I can roll on coat #11. I'm still not sure if I'll stop at 12 coats, or do 14 just for good measure. If I had not sanded almost through to primer trying to get rid of those fish-eyes, I probably would have stopped at 12. I've had full coverage since about coat 4-5. After coats 11-12, I'll break out the 2500 grit.

Another question, has anyone used the 3M 3000 grit? I didn't buy any, but I looked at it the other night. It doesn't look like it does much. I'm not even sure if it would sand out any of the dust bumps or bugs! It just felt soft, like a paper shop towel... Is it a good idea to use this before cutting/buffing? Or should 2500 be my maximum? Or maybe, the thought occurs to me, I should do the final sanding with 2500 first, and then try to take out the 2500 scratches immediately with 3000? Haha... so many questions.

I'm exactly 4 weeks before the scheduled delivery of my 2nd child! Good timing.. kind of... I should be done with the hood by then and can let the paint cure for a good month before cutting and polishing. I still need to go to HF to pick up the polisher I've read most people on here use. Then I can see how quickly I can ruin all my hard work!  agree

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Re: 81 F100 Custom

Post by Tommy Hillbilly on August 6th 2014, 7:39 pm

I've never used higher than 2000. I was lucky to not have any fish-eyes that I can remember, but I did have a problem when I ran into some tar on the passenger side...

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Re: 81 F100 Custom

Post by 81F100 on August 7th 2014, 8:28 am

Hmmm... no higher than 2000, eh? That sounds good to me! Maybe I'll try 2500 since it is available, but if it isn't cutting it (pun intended) I will stick with 2000. Can you provide some input on my other question regarding how much sanding is required on the final sand / whether any 'insufficiently sanded' areas can be noticed after buffing/polishing? I'm curious and afraid to find out the hard way!

Last night I stopped at a local automotive supply that I hadn't been to before. Holy paint supplies! I wish I had gone there before. They had many many sanding blocks and sizes, which was great! My only disappointment was that they don't carry paper long enough for these long blocks in anything finer than 600 grit  ahhh They said "the body shops we supply don't need long paper for fine grit". I guess I'll have to keep searching for paper. I did, however, pick up some Valspar 700C000 Enamel Activator (picture below). I asked for a hardener that would likely work for Rustoleum, and this is what he suggested. He said that it won't shorten dry time, but that it should improve gloss and hardness (protect against chips).

After I poured the premixed 1:1 Rustoleum/Penetrol into my rolling pan, I added one cap-ful of the hardener to the pan. I then mixed by just rolling the roller in the pan many times to try to distribute the hardener throughout the mix. The correct ratio should be 8:1 color to hardener, and I have no idea how close my cap-ful comes to this ratio, but my guess is that it isn't TOO far off. I didn't want to add it to my quart can of premix, because the pot life of the hardener isn't very long. Also, when I had several tablespoons of paint left over after coat #11, I did not put it back in the quart can like I normally would because of the hardener.

I honestly cannot really tell if there is a difference in gloss, and the hardness might be noticed while sanding, but I won't know until after coat #12. Here are some pictures:







They also sell a fish-eye eliminator there, but it was $33... I didn't get it this time because I am on a budget for now. I really want it, and hope to get it in the future. But for now I will cross my fingers that the final 3 coats go off without a hitch.

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Re: 81 F100 Custom

Post by Tommy Hillbilly on August 7th 2014, 4:31 pm

81F100 wrote: Maybe I'll try 2500 since it is available, but if it isn't cutting it (pun intended) I will stick with 2000.
I might've used them if they'd've been readily available, but I was eager to get my car back on the road.


Can you provide some input on my other question regarding how much sanding is required on the final sand / whether any 'insufficiently sanded' areas can be noticed after buffing/polishing? I'm curious and afraid to find out the hard way!
I can tell you that lower grit sanding marks will show through, the more shiny the area gets.  A good technique which helps to ensure that you get adequate sanding coverage with each and every grit, is to alternate your sanding direction by 90º with each grit.  So go up and down with 400, then side to side with 600, back to up and down with 800, and so on. This way, you can more clearly see the difference each stage makes, as well as more easily spot any areas which you might've missed.  You might also work some diagonal angles into the sequence.
I've got some pretty bad sanding scratches on a small part of my hood.

I bought some hardener, but never ended up using it.

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Re: 81 F100 Custom

Post by 81F100 on August 11th 2014, 9:54 am

Thanks again for the input! Right now I can't find any scratches from the lower grit sandpaper. After priming, I didn't use anything lower than 600. What I am most concerned about are the little 'dimples' that might remain after a light sanding. I'm not sure if you will be able to see a difference in the final gloss between these dimples and the surrounding sanded area. The only reason I am concerned is because of some photos Mr. T. Hadley shared. He was having an issue with sanding through one coat of paint to the next. When he tried to cut/polish he could see the transition from one coat to the next, even in the final product. I don't want the same to be true for un-sanded OP dimples. I will probably just sand EVERYTHING to a dull finish after the final coat, leaving no dimples/un-sanded areas behind. It will take more effort/time, but I think the last sanding job is worth it  Very Happy 

I'm going to go back and look at some other projects to find the answer, but feel free to answer this if you know. Should I do the FINAL wet sanding with paper like I normally do, 24-48 hours after rolling? Or do I need to wait the standard 3-4 weeks after rolling for the paint to cure before doing ANYTHING? I can't remember if others wet-sanded after 24 hours, then waited to cut/polish after 3-4 weeks.... or if they waited 3-4 weeks before touching the last coat, even with wet sanding. I will try to find out...

I rolled on coat #12 last week Thursday. It's a bit dark in the picture - the paint looks darker than normal. But I'm happy with the reflections  cheers 



I have a business trip all this week, and won't return until Friday afternoon. I'm hoping to sand down the hood with either 2000 again, or 2500 grit this weekend. Then roll the 13th and FINAL 14th coat. Jeez I hope there are no fish-eyes in either coat!!!! By then I hope to have my answer about how long to wait to do the final wet-sanding.

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Re: 81 F100 Custom

Post by 81F100 on August 29th 2014, 10:23 am

Sorry, it's been a while since I posted. I have been a bit lazy when it comes to the hood.

Last weekend I sanded the entire hood (12th coat) with 2000 grit wet. Then I went over that again with 2500 grit wet, but lightly. Then I rolled coat #13, waited 2 days, and rolled #14. I don't see any fish-eyes or other blemishes on the 14th coat, so I think I am done!!!  cheers

So now I plan on waiting about 5 weeks before touching it again. I might put it out in the sun during the day, while I am at work. When the 5 weeks are up, I'll wet sand again with 2500 grit. Then I'll have to go out and buy the HF polisher and necessary accessories, including Meguire's.

I still used the 1:1 Rustoleum to Penetrol mix. I added about 2 cap-fulls of the valspar hardener to the final coat. For the other pieces of the truck, I might try mixing in some MS... like 3:2:1 Rustoleum:Penetrol:MS. The 1:1 mix is still pretty thick, but I don't mind it too much.

It's actually decent timing, because I won't even be able to touch the hood for about 5 weeks anyway. My wife has her delivery scheduled for next Wednesday, the 3rd! I'm taking 2.5 weeks off of work to stay home with her. Sounds like I am a good husband, eh? WRONG - because then I am immediately leaving for 2.5 weeks on a business trip to Germany again.

Luckily, we have family nearby to help her out as much as she needs.

So here's a picture of coat #13. I didn't take a pic of coat 14 because honestly the 1st coat after sanding always looks the best. But coat 14 still looks great... just the same as the million other pics I've put on here hahaha.


Oh, and I was doing some engine work recently and discovered that a family of tree frogs had decided to call the engine bay 'home'.


Unfortunately, one chose the wrong spot, and I didn't notice him... until about a week later Sad


Not for the squeemish haha. I know it sounds heartless, but I laughed really hard because I didn't notice him until I was driving yesterday and could see his little legs hanging down........

See you all in a while!!

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Re: 81 F100 Custom

Post by Tommy Hillbilly on September 2nd 2014, 6:53 pm

81F100 wrote:
That looks really good!

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Re: 81 F100 Custom

Post by rmdhokie on September 10th 2014, 5:52 pm

Nice job!

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Re: 81 F100 Custom

Post by 81F100 on April 22nd 2015, 7:14 pm

Hello everyone! It's been a while, but winter is finally loosening its grip on Michigan. So... time to go back to the garage.

I never finished the hood (final wet sand, buff and polish). I decided to wait until I have more pieces done and then do them all together. I figure the longer I leave the hood, the more time the paint has to cure. Can't be bad, can it?

So I got out one of the front panels that hasn't been touched since 2008. It has some prelim bondo work and exposed metal, so the surface rust has to go.





These are the panels that I had drilled apart and bedliner'd the insides. This still looks pretty good!





So tonight I spent only about an hour sanding down the old bondo and rust with a random orbital and 150 grit paper. The panel(s) need some body work to smooth them out, but nothing too major. Not sure how easily it will be to paint around the body lines. They seem like they will be harder to work with than those from the hood.

Also, I'm finally doing some real engine work on the truck. I rebuilt YFA 1bbl carb last weekend which helped a lot. The accel pump had a crack from dry-rot (sitting for 8 years without gas) and the float wasn't adjusted well (explains the gas smell and flooding). Adjusted valve lash and re-did valve cover gasket. Next I'm thinking about taking off the head for some work. I'd like to do a leak-down test first to see what I'm dealing with, but I know there is some blow-by. Could be valves or rings, but I'm not sure which.

I'm hoping to do both front panels and both doors all at the same time instead of one at a time. It'll be like watching paint dry for you guys, but I think it'll be most efficient for me.

I'm also thinking of a way to get the cab off the truck. I need to replace the windshield badly and body work/paint. I wanted to bring it inside the garage but my garage isn't long enough to get the truck in. Thinking about making an a-frame and lift it off with a chain fall, then push the truck out from underneath and then set the cab on rollers and roll it into the garage. We'll see... big ideas - no time. Fingers crossed. I'm glad to be back!

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Re: 81 F100 Custom

Post by Tommy Hillbilly on May 13th 2015, 5:50 am

Good to see you back. As always, keep us updated.

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Number of posts : 596
Age : 50
Location : Cincinnata
Project : 1988 Mustang GT convertible
Registration date : 2010-10-07

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Re: 81 F100 Custom

Post by 81F100 on May 25th 2015, 9:25 am

Happy Memorial Day! I haven't done much over the past couple weeks. Things have been pretty busy. I've done a round of bondo sanding, guide coat, wet sanding  (180 grit), bondo, dry sanding (80 - 180 grit). The guide coats help a lot to show me the low spots. Some of them I'm trying to fill in with bondo, and others I'll just leave until the high-build primer coat. For the guide coat, I just sprayed anything in a can that I had lying around.

door before guide coat:


Where the side mirror bolts on is pretty banged up. Looks like someone got to close to something with the mirror, hit the mirror, and bent the door skin in the process. I had a ton of bondo on this area from 8 years ago, but I took almost all of it back off the other day to see exactly what I was dealing with.

door with guide coat:


Just a light spray coat, can held 10+ inches away from the surface.

Here is the other door, which I haven't touched yet. This one is in a lot better shape - there are only a couple small dents. I'll be working on this one next:


Here is the first door again after wet sanding off the guide coat and applying some filler to the problem areas. I ground off the little tabs for the side moulding (I won't be adding any moulding when it is finished). Of course, each of these spots needed filler to make flat.


And here are the two front fenders. Both had the guide coat wet sanded off and then bondo applied. I'm a bit worried that I didn't add enough hardener to the mix. It's been 36 hours and it is still pliable.... doh I have them sitting in the sun today. If they aren't hard by this evening, I'll be scraping off all that bondo and reapplying. Not my idea of progress, but what can I do. I was conservative with the hardener because I had a lot to fill and wanted enough time to do it before it started to set. In the end, I think this will cost me more time than it will save - opposed to making multiple batches of filler when the last batch gets to hard to apply. I've learned my lesson.





Also, anyone have good experience with rolling high-build primer? The last time I tried it (first page of thread) I had terrible results. I'm not sure if it was because the can I bought was old and separated, or if I did something else wrong. If you've had good experience, please advise brand, mixing ratio (if any, and what you mixed it with), and application method. I really want to use a high-build primer so that I have something to sand down to make everything really flat. Thank you in advance!

81F100
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Number of posts : 34
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Registration date : 2014-05-14

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Re: 81 F100 Custom

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