satin finish

Ok,just acquired a very clean 81 Toyota p/u and the paint shows its age.
Its going to be my project truck so i can leave my 2000 s-10 alone like the wife says i should..lol

I'm wanting to get a finish like the hotrod flatz paints.is that doable with this line of paints?

something like this color/finish.... http://www.tcpglobal.com/kustomshop/hrf220.aspx


Ill post pics of the truck in the project section when i pick it up Friday.

There is one spot on the rear corner of the bed that will need a little filler.
Do you guys primer at all on this? it will be spring before i do the actual paint,but i will be shaving the handles and tailgate.so i will need to cover up my work till then.
I don't have a spray gun so i cant do an automotive primer.cant i use a rustoleum primer on the spots?

You can get spray can primers, you would something that has a flexing agent in it for reliability really, over here in England, there is a company called U-Pol that do a fantastic rattlecan primer!

Anyone know if i can get that kind of look with any of the roll on paints?
any color????

Would semi gloss work? I know Rustoluem has it.

What if you just do the final wetsand then dont buff it. That would be pretty flat looking

Roadking41a wrote:Would semi gloss work? I know Rustoluem has it.

hmm,that might be good.


btldigger

btldigger wrote:What if you just do the final wetsand then dont buff it. That would be pretty flat looking

I dont know if i would be able to get the smooth,satin, even look i want.

Its going to be a slammed minitruck.

check my thread in the projects section for semi-gloss rustoleum. its what im using right now

pinoyxpryde wrote:check my thread in the projects section for semi-gloss rustoleum. its what im using right now

thats cool!
Now to just get it past the wife....she wants it gloss red.

Yeah man a semi-gloss would work well if you can find it in the color you want. Btldigger had a good idea as well. Before I buffed my truck it looked like it was sprayed hot rod flat yellow. I almost left it that way but went ahead and buffed for the gloss. Keep us updated, good luck!

hey this is not my car but i found it on the web, this guy used the satin black and it is a sexy color to me. i like it!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

is that the mustang from mopar board? if so he said it was easier than gloss

also if you wetsand and not buff out it will still have a "shine" to it but look dull and faded. and rattle can primer fades bad

Man that mustang is sick. I really like the way that turned out.

I have been having good luck so far with satin black, I am not sure what other colors they make in satin- I know its extremely hard to get satin-anything from rustoleum around here without special ordering it.

There is only one place in my zip code that had satin black on the shelf, and they only had them in quart sized cans (no pints or gallons). It cost me more than what the paintjob did in driving store to store all weekend trying to find satin black.

But if you're doing satin, why would you want to ruin it by turning it into a flat texture? They make flat rustoleums, I would try that first- just remember not to wet sand the final coat, do lil if any polishing, and it should be ok. The hard part would be getting a final coat put down without any mistakes (no runs, minimal orange peel) as there is no margin of error in something you can't wet sand.

The other thing I would look into is seeing if you can find a flat or satin CC. I know in woodworking they make clear lacquer in flat, satin, semi gloss, and gloss. But how well would that hold up to road salt, UV and all the other things you expose a daily driver to? I really have no idea. I have two cases of satin clear acrylic but I am afraid to use it since my paintjob came out so good (so far) and I don't have a test piece (my test piece WAS the car lol). Probably wouldn't hurt to take a spare part like a trunk,hood, door- paint it as you plan to, try various CC's on it, and then let it sit out doors and watch to see what happens to it. Wouldn't show how road-salt resistant it is, but it would let you know if the UV from the sun will damage it, or the polluted rainfall.

You wouldn't have to CC right after your final BC, you'd just have to remove any dirt, wax, or oils from the surfaces before you apply a CC. So you could let your test piece sit for years before deciding to try a CC on your actual car.

IF you can get a CC to work, a flat CC might take some of the shine away from a satin paint job. The key I think would be in not wet sanding that color coat because it would ruin the texture (flat and satin paints have a texture, and will look like crud if you use aggressive abrasives on them).

I know that, with Antique Radios- people often use rustoleum's to paint on the trim parts on wooden radios in restoring them. Usually what they did from the factory is apply toner lacquer with a gun (basically lacquer with dyes and stains added to it so it looks walnut or mahogeny color), then they'd paint trim parts (like the sides of the speaker grill) with a flat oil based black, and then clear coat the whole thing with a satin or semigloss lacquer. I have had no problems with clear lacquer or toner lacquer "sticking" to wooden trim parts painted with brown or black rustoleum... but we're talking about furniture that sits inside 24/7, never sees UV light, and never sees polluted rain, road salt, or sand/dirt from roadways.

This set is toner-mahogonry lacquer, flat black rustoleum on the trim, followed by satin clear acrylic/lacquer:



It's shinny but not mirror-reflective.