air dryer?

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air dryer?

Post by megaglow_z on June 7th 2008, 6:26 pm

Ok, I'm almost ready to spray this thing.....my heart sinks in fear...lol

What kind of cheap air line dryer is available and where do i get one?

Its really humid here. always is, so I'm assuming i will need one correct?
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Re: air dryer?

Post by retired plumber on June 7th 2008, 6:55 pm

I would try Harbor Freight first and then Home Depot or Lowes. Most any auto paint store would have them but not for cheeeeep. Sears might even have some. Up here there are a couple of stores that just carry tools for cheap and most are junk but there are some good mixed in also. An air dryer should be ok tho. just make sure you can drain it. One name comes to mind is tool town. Usually they are just hole in the wall places and crammed full of tools.
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Re: air dryer?

Post by megaglow_z on June 15th 2008, 8:39 pm

Ok, got a line dryer and still got water in my line!
Even added a disposable filter right before the gun.
ended up putting 2 disposable filters on the gun and wrapping the gun in a rag as water was dripping off the gun!
I don't know if I'm going to be able to pull off spraying it. might end up rolling!
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Re: air dryer?

Post by retired plumber on June 16th 2008, 12:22 am

I don't know what kind of compressor you have but if it has a tank they have a drain on the bottom. open that and try draining the tank. That might help. How close do you have your dryer to the tank? Usually they are recommended to be at least 20ft from the compressor. That gives the moisture time to cool and condense so the water trap will pick it up. The o.p. you talk about is usually caused by the spray settings. You need to find a big box or something to spray a test pattern on and adjust from there. A lot of things affect the spray settings. Not enough air, too much paint, Holding the gun too far away from the surface (should be 6-8 inches), too much air turblance(sp) where you are spraying (wind from fan) and too hot are just some of the things that cause o.p.
Most auto paint call for a 3-4 to 1 mix of paint to thinner but I have never sprayed rustolem so I can't recommend a ratio for that.
Do you have good light? As you are spraying can you sight down where you just sprayed and see it looking wet? If not you have 2 strikes aginst you right there. You NEED to see how the paint goes down and experiment from there. Always overlap that pass by 1/2 for the next one. The trick is to never have a dry spot between passes. Try to make full passes if you can. Maybe even walking the full length of the truck and never start and stop in the middle of a panel.
Spraying paint is not easy. I have been doing it for 40 years as a hobby and I still screw up. I have never had a paint job come out PERFECT but then I have never had a proper spraybooth either Sad I didn't mean to write a book but I hope somewhere in there I have helped you. Good luck. You should have the seen the the first car I painted Crying or Very sad
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Re: air dryer?

Post by megaglow_z on June 16th 2008, 12:39 am

Thanks for the help man!
I'm going to adjust some things and try again. When i went back out to look at it after about 5 hrs or so, i did not look near as bad as when i first shot it.
I had my dryer on the tank, i will move it out with a 20 ft line.
As far as light, I'm painting in an open end shop with tons of halo lighting and clear panels in the roof. i can see very well in there.
I wet sanded it all down, dried and shot it again with a little thinner paint.
I got 2 small runs but the paint looks very nice.
I think ill try a mix in between 25/75 and 50/50.seems like i can not get enough paint down at 25/75 and its a little wet at 50/50.
As far as humidity, i might have to run 2 line dryers and 2 disposable at the gun...its REALLY humid here in Louisiana, and there is no waiting for dryer weather...lol
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Re: air dryer?

Post by retired plumber on June 16th 2008, 12:31 pm

Remember, when you are spraying each coat is really thin so you have to build up coverage. Usually there is one "tack" (light) coat and then 2-3 "wet" coats to get complete coverage and then a final coat that is mixed really thin (mostly thinner) and that is sprayed from 2ft or so away from the car and is just misted on. The theory is that helps the paint flow out smooth.Works for me (sometimes). Wait untill each coat tacks ( just feels sticky. Test on the masking) and then you can put on the next coat.
You had the truck all one color (primer) when you started didn't you? I do know having a solid base coat to start with helps a bunch with the coverage of the color coats.
I don't know what else to suggest about the humidity except to say I live by Seattle Wa and have painted when it is raining outside so I know what you are talking about. I do know that the larger the tank your compressor has, the less it has to run so there is less heat of compression so the moisture condenses faster and stays in the tank. Just have to remember to drain it more often...lol. I should mention also that not having enough air pressure will not atomize the paint into small enough droplets and the smaller they are, the better the flow out (less o.p.). I can tell when I am running low on air pressure by how the paint is flowing on the car. When that happens I usually finish that pass or panel and wait for the compressor to catch up. That is one of the reasons you need to see what you are doing.
Another thing is to try to have the first few feet of your air hose go up hill so any condensation will run back to your tank.
I'm sorry if you know some of this allready but I don't know what you know and there WILL be noobies that know nothing reading this so a lot of this is for them also.
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Re: air dryer?

Post by Effle18 on November 17th 2008, 11:46 am

retired plumber wrote:Remember, when you are spraying each coat is really thin so you have to build up coverage. Usually there is one "tack" (light) coat and then 2-3 "wet" coats to get complete coverage and then a final coat that is mixed really thin (mostly thinner) and that is sprayed from 2ft or so away from the car and is just misted on. The theory is that helps the paint flow out smooth.

I'm about to start spraying, do I want to do the tack coat followed by the 2-3 wet coats in the same session, or do I want a tack coat then sand then a wet coat and sand etc??
I was under the impression I would want to spray it all at once then by the time I am done with this first light coat I could do a second coat (as the first had time to tack up), let this dry sand with the 400 grit then hit it again with 2 more coats, sand with the 600 etc..
Thanks for the help..
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Re: air dryer?

Post by retired plumber on November 17th 2008, 2:42 pm

Do it all at once (same session). There should not be a reason to sand between each coat unless YOU want to. That is the reason for the final coat. It is really reduced and just misted on. The idea is that the reducer will help the previous coat smooth out some more and of coarse the extra color is a plus. You will probably still need to sand and buff but after this but hopefully not as much.
I have been painting for over 40 years (hobby only) and I still have to sand and buff to get a perfect job but it bepends on how picky I am the day after I paint. Good luck and post pix if you can. We love them.
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Re: air dryer?

Post by Effle18 on November 17th 2008, 3:57 pm

Thanks for the help but now I really have questions...
I was going to do gloss red undercoats then a semi gloss black final coat then very lightly sand the black so it is a flat hot rod look with a little of the red showing thru here or there..
So I would think I would spray all of my coats of red let this dry then go ahead and spray one coat of black?
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Re: air dryer?

Post by retired plumber on November 18th 2008, 12:31 am

That will be an interesting paint job. I guess I would do it as you said. Gloss red first and hope it came out smooth and then enough black to cover while leaving the red spots unpainted.
Two things to note here.........
First. Your red can't be buffed and smooth where you want the black because it will not stick. There is a window in which you can apply more paint (your black) without sanding and the bond will be chemical when in that window (paint will feel dry but it won't be hard all the way through yet). However.....the sand and buff time will probably be after the window is past. After the window you need to sand because then the bond is mechanical only and you need the roughness for the black to adhere to. Sort of a catch 22 if you follow me. I think I would paint the red like it was the only color with the misted on final coat and then just enough black to cover while still in the window. The can will tell you that.
Second........" Hot rod black" is NOT sanded black paint. It is regular paint with a flatting agent put in it which you get at a auto paint store The trick here is to use satin paint. It gives the same finish you want.
One final thought. You will have roughness where the red is showing through the black because ot the two different textures of the paints (smooth gloss red and satin black). Sounds like a real interesting project. Be sure you take pictures and post them. I am a great fan of trick paint such as this. Sorry for the book. Hope I answered your question.
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Re: air dryer?

Post by megaglow_z on November 18th 2008, 1:39 am

As a note, if your going to spray rustoleum, i would suggest a 2-8 hr window at the most.
I was fine till i waited 12 hrs, and man did it screw up.
It wrinkled the previous coat and i had to redo the whole top of the truck.
if you need to wait a day, i would give it a week to harden up, then wet sand with 600 and spray it again.

I also would recommend using a test panel, like an old door or hood with your colors, then sanding separate areas with 600,1000,1500,and 2000 to see witch one looks best for your look.

mine is done in all satin black/red...check it out.
http://www.rolledon.com/projects-f2/81-toyota-old-school-longbed-mini-t193.htm

page 4 bottom of the posts are finished pics.
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Re: air dryer?

Post by Effle18 on November 18th 2008, 10:13 am

Megaglow, I thought you had suggested (in another thread) to use semigloss black to get that flat hot rod look instead of flat black as the flat will stain and have that chalk board look? Is this what you used?
Thanks
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Re: air dryer?

Post by Effle18 on November 18th 2008, 1:59 pm

Here is the look I am going for, except have Black with a little Red showing thru. I can control how much Red is coming thru the black with light sanding.



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Re: air dryer?

Post by retired plumber on November 18th 2008, 2:41 pm

If thats the look you want than your red will not be glossy. If you can live with this then just paint it red then just enough black to cover. Let dry for a couple of days and then sand the whole thing and get down to the red where you want. Then repaint it with a clear satin coat.
One of the reasons I keep saying use satin verses sanding is because the minute sanding scratches attract and hold dirt and grime a lot more than a smooth finish will plus a sanded finish is a porus finish and is a open door for water and other bad stuff to attack the paint. Satin paint will look just as good as sanded without all the problems because it is a smooth unbroken finish. Its your car and you can do what you want and if you don't like it , just sand it down and repaint. I also would do a test panel and get it all figured out first.
Well, you asked and I gave my $.02 worth of 40 years of hobby painting. Use it as you see fit Very Happy .
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Re: air dryer?

Post by Effle18 on November 18th 2008, 5:04 pm

Thanks for the advice!!! I do have my hesitations with spraying on a satin finish as this is my first try at painting, however I guess if I can spray the rust-o then I should be able to spray paint and clear the same huh?
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Re: air dryer?

Post by megaglow_z on November 18th 2008, 7:59 pm

yes, you will want to use a clear with a flattening agent.and yes, i used semi-gloss on all of it.
What kind/brand of paint are you going to be spraying?
Then we can help more Smile
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Re: air dryer?

Post by retired plumber on November 18th 2008, 8:13 pm

If this is your first time spray painting you definately need to experiment on an old door or hood first and get the feel for it. Then again, this is a perfect learning avenue for you. Just don't get discouraged. Just ask Megaglow about that. He had all kinds of fun when he did his but it still came out fine and looks really good.
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Re: air dryer?

Post by Effle18 on November 18th 2008, 10:24 pm

I'm using the standard rust-oleum thinned with mineral spirts...semi gloss black and it will have to be gloss red (only because I can not find semi gloss red) for the undercoat(s)..
I started on the first fender using the roll method, but I thought this was going to be difficult on the truck bed around the outside stake pockets, not to mention time consuming between all of the coats and sanding...
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Re: air dryer?

Post by Effle18 on November 21st 2008, 1:16 pm

What Clear do you guys recommend? Does it matter what kind of flatting agent? Also how many coats would I need?
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Re: air dryer?

Post by Effle18 on November 21st 2008, 1:19 pm

Also here is how the bed looks, came out pretty well, just waiting for everything to harden then I can sand, I am torn now if I want to sand "down" to my Red undercoat, the black looks so good.

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Re: air dryer?

Post by retired plumber on November 21st 2008, 3:31 pm

Easy enough decision. Just sand down one fender and see if you like it. If not all you have to do is repaint the fender. After all, its only a coat of paint. I say go for it and see how it looks. Now you have me curious.
I thought I recognized that fender from an earlier pix. Don't see many trucks like that any more. I KNOW if it was mine it would have a 3in top chop and be pearl white with lavender schllops (sp) or flames and a silver pleated interior but then I grew up in the lead sled era.In 1972 I had a '50 Merc with everything but a chopped top, only because I was too afraid to try the chop myself but it was nosed, decked and had all the lights frenched and had rolls and pleats all done by myself.
All black with those wheels would look spectacular tho. I really do like it, especially with those little chrome steps thumbs up
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Re: air dryer?

Post by Effle18 on November 21st 2008, 3:43 pm

Thanks Mike...
Hey What Clear and flattener do you recommend?
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Re: air dryer?

Post by retired plumber on November 21st 2008, 8:02 pm

I have never done flat paint but it would probably be at an auto paint store. I believe rusto has a clear also and it would way cheaper than a auto paint store. If you like the way the black looks now then thats all you have to do. The only time you would need the satin (semi gloss) clear is if you sand down to the red in places. Hope that helped.
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Re: air dryer?

Post by megaglow_z on November 22nd 2008, 10:12 pm

dang man, that would look sooooo killer all satin black like that!
And you would not have to spray a clear Smile
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