Prep Work

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Prep Work

Post by Bwick84 on January 24th 2009, 1:10 pm

I have a question about how to do the prep work for this. I have a 73 Duster that I am going to try this with. I've already purchased some Regal Red Rustoleum.

However, I have never done any bodywork or prep work before so I don't have a clue what I need to do. Everything is pretty straight on it so I won't need to do much bodywork. I've tried bondo on a few small dings and it wasn't too hard.

The current paint is the original on the car but it has a lot of little nicks and some deeper scratches in it. What is the best way to approach this with this method? Do I need to sand it all down to bare metal? If so what's the best way to do that? If I have to go to bare metal, should I primer it after that? If I don't have to go down to bare metal, how do I fill those little nicks?

Sorry for all the questions, but I have tried searching for this and haven't found any clear answers. Thanks in advance for you help.
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Re: Prep Work

Post by megaglow_z on January 24th 2009, 7:18 pm

You do not want to sand down to bare metal.
You will want to use a high build primer [they sell it at walmart in the auto section] on the nicks and scratches, and sand till there level with the paint "might take a few passes to get it."

If the pits are bad, be sure there is no rust. If there is, you might even consider sanding the area at the pit a few inches in diameter down to the metal, and skim coat some bondo on it. then sand smooth.

I had some bad pits in the leading edge of my hood. I would spray a nice full coat of high build primer on, let it dry, then wet sand all of it off. it will stay in the chips. i did that till i could put a light coat of it on and not see any dips.
the original paint is ALWAYS the best base for paint. unless its just peeling off the car.
If your planing on a drastic color change, i would primer the whole car after wet sanding and prep is done.
Its all in the prep work how your paint will turn out.
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Re: Prep Work

Post by Bwick84 on January 24th 2009, 11:20 pm

Thanks for the reply. I will give that a shot. I always hear that it's all in the prep work, but I've never known how to do the prep work so this helps a lot.

Is there a specific primer I should put on the car to get it one color? I would prefer something that I could roll on. I tried some rustoleum stops rust primer straight from the can on a test area, but that left quite a bit of orange peel. After I sanded the orange peel down, I wiped it down with mineral spirits and it took the primer right off.

Would it work better if I mixed the primer with mineral spirits to begin with? It seems like that wouldn't cover very well though. Any help would be appreciated.
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Re: Prep Work

Post by jtwh20 on January 25th 2009, 12:18 pm

most of the info i've seen when guys are putting on primer was full strength... if you are priming to fill in some pits, then you wouldn't want to thin it, but you will have to blend the pitted / primer filled areas so they are smooth and level with the rest of that area
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Re: Prep Work

Post by retired plumber on January 25th 2009, 4:07 pm

I have been painting for over 40 years as a hobby and what megaglow says is pretty much right.
Bondo is ment to be put over metal, not paint and if you have large pits (rock chips, etc) you can use glaze in them (comes in a squeeze tube and found in the paint dept) and then sand. Primer, even high fill, is not ment to fill large pits, just small imperfections and sanding scratches. Also remember, primer is still paint and the thicker it is put on, the more drying time it requires.
Wipe your car down with water and dry. Mineral spirits is a thinner for rusto so naturally it wiped off, especially if it was fresh. The older the paint is tho, the less it will do that but still will to some extent.
Good luck with your project and when more ? come up just ask.
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Re: Prep Work

Post by Coconut Eater on January 25th 2009, 11:01 pm

When I painted my first car a quarter century ago, I was baffled how bad a job I did at sanding. I didn't "feather" the parts where primer met paint, and it was a horrible mess! Prime. Sand. Repeat. If you can drag a fingernail across the surface and feel it "catch" on something, you have a lot more priming and sanding and feathering to go!

Also- and I don't know why this works- don't rub your flat hand across the surface to see if it is smooth. Lay a t-shirt on the panel, and then rub a flat hand across the panel with the t-shirt between your hand and the panel. Somehow, it magnifies the imperfections.

And when you are done sanding and priming...sand some more!

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Re: Prep Work

Post by Bwick84 on January 26th 2009, 12:06 am

Thanks for everyone's input. This helps a lot. I will probably just start a new thread for my project and ask any other questions I have there. I just have to remember to take some pictures. Thanks again to everyone.
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