Another new guy

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Another new guy

Post by chrisser on February 9th 2009, 9:19 am

Enjoyed the forum so far.

I've restored/rodded several cars and painted a few using the standard BC/CC automotive urethanes using a HVLP gun.

I live in the city, and I just can't get away with spraying that stuff into the air, morally or legally, so I've pretty much dropped out of doing anything but mechanical work on cars.

Anyhow, been reading a bit about this rolling method - the article in Hot Rod somewhat legitimized it.

I'm coming at it from a different perspective than some. I'm not interested in a $50 or $100 paint job. I'm a perfectionist and am looking for a method that gives show-quality or near-show-quality results without spraying.

The old coachbuilders used brushes with lacquer or colored varnish and managed to get some pretty amazing results. I figure with the technology of today's coatings, I should be able to match those results, but get the added durability and protection of modern paints. I'm not afraid of sanding and, as a hobbyiest, if it takes me a few months of an hour here and an hour there, that actually works better with my schedule.

To date, the biggest obstacle for me has been the paint. Automotive coatings are designed to be sprayed, and the solvent formulations are built around that. Some of the solvents actually evaporate between the tip of the gun and the surface you are painting - rolling circumvents that formulation. Rolling on an automobile-quality paint is going to be somewhat of a crapshoot - if you put on coats before previous coats have fully gassed, you are likely going to trap the solvents and get solvent-pop down the road, especially with a BC/CC system. The manufacturers aren't interested iin producing formulations that can be rolled, although there are some rollable primers out there, so hopefully that time will come eventually.

For me, rustoleum, or any enamel just isn't worth the time it will take to do the job because it just isn't going to last, IMHO. An enamel with hardner might work OK, but it's hard to beat urethane.

So far, the best compromise I've found is to use a marine-quality, rollable/brushable two-part polyurethane. System Three makes a marine, two-part linear poly, that is water-based. Its single stage, but there is a clear available. It can be sanded and buffed and goes over an epoxy primer. It's similar to Imron. Biggest downside is a lack of colors, but I think I can work around that - I've always been a fan of basic black as long as the underlying bodywork can support it.

Something I had also considered, and may try, is to roll on one of the water-based base coats. These can be recoated long after they've been laid down, so I figure I can let it sit a few weeks to get out all the solvents, then roll on a high-solids automotive urethane clear one coat at a time - wait a few weeks to get the solvents out, scuff, repeat. Might work, but I won't know until I try.

The wife has a '94 Altima that's starting to rust on the quarters. We're going to get her something newer, and then that car will be my experiment. The plan is to do some bodywork, and then experiment with rolling/tipping a high quality product like the System Three line. If all goes well, we'll probably drive it for a year to expose it to all seasons, and then I'll take what I've learned and apply it to a more interesting project.

So, I'm here to learn a little about your experiences, even if some won't be directly applicable to my plans. I have some experience with paint/body, so I'm willing to help out where I can. Mostly I'll be reading old posts and lurking as time allows.

Number of posts : 1
Age : 50
Registration date : 2009-02-09

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Re: Another new guy

Post by megaglow_z on February 10th 2009, 8:23 pm

Cool deal man! glad to have you onboard.
Don't get discouraged if the forums are slow right now, winter does that to it Smile
200+ Poster!
200+ Poster!

Number of posts : 261
Age : 46
Location : Benton, La.
Job/hobbies : Autoglass tech
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