Question - Primer/Thiner (Acetone)

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Question - Primer/Thiner (Acetone)

Post by microshift on April 23rd 2009, 8:52 am

I've been testing this new primer I got to see if it goes well with Interlux Brightside.
The primer is good quality and it says "For professional use" all over the can and "BodyFill" etc.
Also says "2K-Acryl System".

The previous primer I used (and failed with Interlux) was very melting with acetone.
I use acetone as thiner with Interlux and don't know it was the cause for the paint not stuck to the primer.

Some parts of the car's body were already worked by previous owner, so there was primer of that too.
Here is a picture of it:


That "old" primer was good for Interlux, as paint stuck to it very well. The thing is, this "old" primer don't melt with acetone like the new one.

You may ask if I test with Interlux on this new primer I got.
Yes I did some testing, I sprayed a small area with primer and rolled a small quantity of Interlux+Acetone.
I left if drying for some 18H and it appears to be dry althought maybe not cured. But the paint was hard and the only way to removing it was by scratching it. So I guess it passed the test.
But now I dont know anymore because I see the primer melts with acetone in a cloth, so maybe I didn't left the paint time enough of the primer so it reacts and make paint not stick any more.
I don't know. May someone help me understand this, please? I hope that my English is not difficult to understand! Rolling Eyes

Could a primer that melts with acetone be painted over by paint that uses acetone as thiner?
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Re: Question - Primer/Thiner (Acetone)

Post by retired plumber on April 23rd 2009, 11:41 am

When you said 2K-Acryl system That makes me wonder if it is susposed to use a catalist also. I have seen paint here that needed a catalist and it was called 2K meaning two part. Some things in Europe are labeled differently then the USA tho.
Anyway about your question. what ever you mix your paint with (in this case primer) will have to interact with it or as you said, "melt". When it is mixed in paint it is diluted so it is not as strong as it was when you put it on a rag. Also that is one way paint sticks between coats is by melting together. This has to be done during a specified time or it won't work (called a window). Having said all that..............You can still melt old paint with a much hotter thinner sometimes but it depends on the paint.
I have never used interlux or acetone so the above is just my understanding from using regular auto paint. From reading here the thinner for interlux is NOT acetone but has acetone in it. The other chemicals in the specified thinner also have a bearing on the outcome of the job and if they are not there the paint may not work as advertised. It is ALWAYS best to use the stuff recommended on the can. That way you are assured of a good job (baring user error).If I were you I would go ahead and paint a whole fender and wait a week or so and see if it would pull off with tape like it did before. If it passed that test I would go for it. Good luck
Mike
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Re: Question - Primer/Thiner (Acetone)

Post by microshift on April 23rd 2009, 12:05 pm

Thanks a lot Mike, that was all I needed to read Smile

It's about 2 weeks that Interlux is on the wood. It was thinned with acetone and painted over original paint after sanding it.
The work looks good and the paint is very solid, so I guess acetone works alright.
Also, on the can its written that Brightside can be painting directly without thinner. So, the thinner is an option and is only present until paint cures.
So, now its cured, I think that step is passed successfully.

I would use the appropriate thiner from Brightside but I read in a site that it was ok to use acetone.
http://carpainting.wetpaint.com/page/Rollering+Interlux+Brightside+Polyurethane+Paint?t=anon
So I ordered only the paint and saved a lot of money Rolling Eyes

Anyway, thanks again and best wishes for you too!!
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Re: Question - Primer/Thiner (Acetone)

Post by retired plumber on April 23rd 2009, 5:07 pm

Glad you got it figured out applaude . By the way, your English is fine.
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Re: Question - Primer/Thiner (Acetone)

Post by microshift on April 24th 2009, 11:00 am

One more question

Is it OK to put primer over the paint before the 2nd couch?

I ask this because there are some scratches and gaps that I didn't notice before. Now they can be seen under the new paint and need to erase them before the new couch of paint.

Or should I treated them like orange peel, sanding until its flat?

Thank you for answering
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Re: Question - Primer/Thiner (Acetone)

Post by retired plumber on April 24th 2009, 1:54 pm

I would sand them out if possible or fix them however you need to and yes, you can primer over new paint. The sooner they are fixed the easier it will be to hide them with paint. If you can see them now, you WILL be able to see them later. Very minor sanding scratches may fill with paint but most won't. you will live with gaps (or chips) if they don't get fixed before the final paint coats.
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Re: Question - Primer/Thiner (Acetone)

Post by microshift on April 25th 2009, 8:14 am

I went sanding now that's been 30 hours after the "over primer coat".
The coat is very thin, and primer is revealed with some passes of 400 grit.

Now the bad news, paint still peels out with the "pull off tape test". As previously, only where 's primer under it. Shocked

I'm beginning to think that this could be normal in the cure process. Is this a possibility?

This is a close up of one sanded area. I suppose the little black spots are paint filling the irregularities of the primer. This look like good, but if I glue some plastic tape over this, black paint come totally out, leaving the primer clean of paint.

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Re: Question - Primer/Thiner (Acetone)

Post by retired plumber on April 25th 2009, 12:58 pm

Is this over the "old primer"? If so , this may be part of the curing process But sisce I never used interlux I don't know. 30 hours is not a lot of time.
What you are seeing is the tops of the orange peel being sanded off. The dull parts were high and the shiny black spots are the bottoms that you haven't reached yet. You need several coats before you can sand all the orange peel out and still have good color.
Why are you putting tape on anyway?
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Re: Question - Primer/Thiner (Acetone)

Post by microshift on April 25th 2009, 1:06 pm

The tape is the kind of test I invented do see if paint fuses well with the under coat Wink

"Is this over the "old primer"?" No it's the new primer, the one that says 2K on the can, remember?

One more question, could some soap washing debris, being left from not so well clean after wash, interfere and contaminate the process of cure?

Also, I'm wet sanding with soap in water. Could this be a problem?
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Re: Question - Primer/Thiner (Acetone)

Post by retired plumber on April 25th 2009, 4:06 pm

As I said before I have never used interlux or acetone so I really have no idea of how her react. Everything I have suggested comes from 40+ years experience of spraying with auto paint.
Putting a bit of dish soap in the bucket with the sanding water is recomended. As far as it contaminating the surface I don't think so. Did you wipe it down with mineral spirits just before painting? this also picks up any left over junk and helps to clean grease and fingerprints. I don't know anything else to tell you about what you have done so far. All I can say is good luck.
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