Spray gun

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Spray gun

Post by kKkInGsRuLeEe on April 24th 2009, 6:48 pm

I am going to be painting my car soon, I don't have much money at all (in the middle of a header/exhaust system install) so I was going to spray paint the car with some flat black automotive spray paint sold at Autozone. I already painted the back hatch of my car and the fuel door about three or four months ago ( I was going to go ahead and just spray paint it over the whole car, but decided that I would try my best and sand it down and apply the paint so it doesn't show chips or flaws in the stock paint job). Anyway, the paint is still on there, under layers of dust, the car needs a car wash, and it doesn't look bad. I was going to just sand it down to primer and apply the spray paint and call it a day.

But I started reading around and read someone's post about a paint job done with glossy black Rustoleum, and I saw some pictures posted and it looked good, done for 36 bucks for the gallon of Rustoleum, thinner, and some sand paper. I really would like to follow this job done and do it on my car, but I am very inexperienced, I can sand alright, but I have never painted a car (I have painted a building though with a spray gun), but I don't think I would have a very hard time applying paint or sanding, but I just don't know the usual procedures involved in preping, painting, and polishing.

Which finally brings me to my problem, If I wanted to do the glossy black Rustoleum I would need a spray gun, and I don't have an air compressor to work with, so what are my options here?

Thanks alot for your input guys.
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Re: Spray gun

Post by retired plumber on April 24th 2009, 7:29 pm

Painting a car is a lot different than a building. If you have never sprayed a car you better get a scrap hood to practice on first.
Now to answer some questions..
1... Wash the car good with dawn dish soap to cut the greese and stuff on the car.
2... You dont need to sand to primer. In fact the best base coat is the factory paint. All it needs is to be not shiny. I would sand with 360 grit paper.
3...Body work is also done at this stage. Also remember, any flaws you can see at this stage, you will see in the final paint job.
4...Prep is 90% of the paint job.
5...Painting is an art and not as easy as it looks. There are a hundred things that need to be addressed about the actual spraying of paint.
6...Polishing (buffing) is an art also but easy to learn. ALWAYS keep the buffer moving and ALWAYS have the pad spinning off edges and body seams etc to keep from burning through the paint.
I could go on but I don't want to scare you off. Check out some of my posts to Megaglow-z. We have had several conversations about all phases of painting and his came out pretty good and he started in the same place as you almost. You CAN do it. Spend a few hours reading here and learn a whole bunch. This is not rocket science but a little knowledge and care must be used. You can always rent a compressor and spray gun if this is going to be a one time thing. Hope this helped. Good luck
Mike
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Re: Spray gun

Post by kKkInGsRuLeEe on April 24th 2009, 9:24 pm

alright, thanks ALOT man, that sounds good.

So the factory paint should probably just be painted over? The 360 sand paper is pretty fine correct? So it will just dull the surface a bit?

There are a couple of dimples on the passenger rear wheel well, they are very small, what would you recommend to do with these?
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Re: Spray gun

Post by retired plumber on April 25th 2009, 12:47 pm

Yes and yes.
Dimples...If they are 1/8in deep or less use glaze. Comes in a tube and is usually red or if deeper use bondo. Glaze can go over paint but bondo must go on bare metal. Both can be found at the auto parts store.
Mike
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Re: Spray gun

Post by longdx on April 26th 2009, 10:46 pm

@retired plumber:

Do you dry sand with 360 grit paper initially? Thank you in advance
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Re: Spray gun

Post by kKkInGsRuLeEe on April 27th 2009, 2:02 pm

What's the difference between wet and dry sanding?


Another quick question, you said it would be a good idea to just run over my stock paint with 360 grit sand paper, but I have some paint chips on the roof and a small patch of chipped paint perhaps 3 inches in diameter where primer is showing through, what would I do with that? Should I just sand the whole car because of the paint chips on top?
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Re: Spray gun

Post by retired plumber on April 27th 2009, 2:37 pm

The initial sanding can be done either wet or dry I do it both ways. If using a orbital sander it will be dry. If by hand then it will be wet. Dry meaning just that, dry. Wet means that also, wet. When I wet sand I either have a bucket full of water I dip the sanding block in or have a hose trickling water where I am sanding. the water flushes the sanding dust from the paper and helps keep it clean. When drysanding the spinning of the sander throws the stuff out.
Paint chips are sanded down to smooth and the edges are feathered out into the surrounding paint untill the edges can't be felt with your fingers. The 3in spot would not be a chip. probably pealing paint so I would sand at least an inch past the edges of it to make sure you got back into good paint. If during this sanding you get to metal then it must be primered before you paint. Always try to use a light shade of primer for a light colored car and a darker colored primer on a dark colored car.
The area you want to paint needs to be sanded so there is no shiny spots reguardless of any body work needed.
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