E30 BMW - PAINT PLAN SO FAR

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E30 BMW - PAINT PLAN SO FAR

Post by funcrew on November 6th 2009, 5:05 pm

Hey, nice forum you've cooked up, I'm glad to be here.

I've got a totally rust-free (other than gravel dings) 1988 BMW 325i sedan with 77K miles. The mechanicals and interior are in excellent shape, but the paint is ugly. Half the car is in original factory paint, which has clear coat failure and a million rock chips. The roof has been re-painted badly, with poor color match and severe orange peel. The entire car has lots of parking lot dings, severe detailing damage, and assorted nastiness. Current color is metallic blue gray, "cirrusblau." I would like to beautify the car, and make it white, which will help with the 115F summer heat is Las Vegas.

My Plan - Subject to change, please comment if you see a better way of doing any of this:

1. Roll the fenders with Eastwood fender roller (already bought for this project). I will be running 225-45-15 autocross tires on 15X8 ET20 wheels, with appx 2 deg neg front camber.
2. Spray (regular aerosol can) canvas white rustoleum (from inside the wheel well) into the crevice of the rolled fender to prevent rust in there.
3. Remove bumpers. Remove plastic bump strips from the bumpers, gently strip with spray paint remover, and restore from the incorrect body color (PO's bad respray) to SEM trim black as it would appear stock.
4. Remove all other trim that is reasonably easy.
NOTE - REMOVAL OF SUNROOF TAKES APPX 40 POUNDS OFF THE TOP OF THE CAR
5. Remove sunroof & motor. Re-install interior fabric-covered overhead panel to retain stock appearance.
6. On roof exterior, sand to bare metal around sunroof.
7. JB-Weld sheetmetal (probably stainless steel or aluminum) to cover sunroof hole, with 2 inches of overlap on all sides. Some guys pop-rivet for extra security, but I don't plan to do this (yet).
8. Use RAGE filler to blend sunroof patch into roof.
9. On the gravel dings that go to bare metal, sand off rust.
10. Sand with 150 grit all the parking lot dings and shallow dents (to roughen paint only - not to bare metal).
11. Fill all dings and dents with RAGE filler.
12. Block sand the filler work until flat with surrounding sheetmetal.
13. Sand entire car with 300 grit.
14. Remove locking strip from front and rear windshields, but leave glass in place.
15. Remove interior door panels & all trunk carpeting etc.
16. Mask all trim that could not be removed.
17. At the masked edges, door interiors, door jambs, trunk interior, top edge of engine bay, and around the windshields where the locking strips go, spray with Rustolem canvas white aerosol can, to get into the nooks and crannies that the roller & brush can't go.
18. Paint exterior & non-black portion of bumpers with Interlux Hatteras Off-White per the methods on this site.
19. Re-install everything, with new all-black windshield locking strips.

Let me know what you think about the Interlux Hatteras Off White. The BMW stock alpineweiss color is probably more like Interlux Matterhorn White, but I'm not very concerned about factory-ness, considering my plans to butcher the car mechanically.

I'm sure there's plenty I haven't thought of, so let me know if you see any holes in this approach.

THANKS!

Tim
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Re: E30 BMW - PAINT PLAN SO FAR

Post by retired plumber on November 6th 2009, 6:09 pm

Hi Tim, welcome to the forum. I will comment on a few of your plans.
#6/7 Don't use JB-weld, They make a epoxy glue just for this and it is really good stuff. Get it at the auto paint store. Its not cheap but it will hold up a lot better than JB-weld. Go to the wrecking yard and find a car like yours and cut a piece of the roof out of it to put in yours. It will have the CORRECT curves to match your roof line. Yes, all body panels have a curve to them, not much but its there. This gives them strength and stops the popping in and out.
#10 If your just roughing paint then 320 grit is fine. 150 will leave scratches that will have to be filled or they will show. 150 is fine for going to metal for the shallow dings because all the fillers I am familuar with have to go over bare metal (rage might be different tho). You can use glaze (comes in a tube) in rock chips insted of taking it down to metal is you want.
#14 I have painted cars for over 40 years and have never taken the trim off of a window unless there was rust under it. Just use care when masking and save some work.
Since you want white , make sure you cover the entire car in primer (light gray or white) before your color coats. You want the underbase coat all the same color and the lighter the better because that WILL affect the top coat.I painted a truck dark red matallic and the hood had 2 different colors of primer on it....yep..... you could see them (at least I could) when it was clean and in certain angles. It was my work truck so it was not a big deal to me. Most people would never notice tho but your mileage may very.
Sounds like quite a project. What are you going to butcher on the car?
Good luck
Mike
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Re: E30 BMW - PAINT PLAN SO FAR

Post by RoboGeek on November 6th 2009, 7:36 pm

sounds like a fun car.. gonna autocross it or just give it 'the look'
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Re: E30 BMW - PAINT PLAN SO FAR

Post by funcrew on November 7th 2009, 2:19 am

retired plumber wrote:Hi Tim, welcome to the forum. I will comment on a few of your plans.
#6/7 Don't use JB-weld, They make a epoxy glue just for this and it is really good stuff. Get it at the auto paint store. Its not cheap but it will hold up a lot better than JB-weld. Go to the wrecking yard and find a car like yours and cut a piece of the roof out of it to put in yours. It will have the CORRECT curves to match your roof line. Yes, all body panels have a curve to them, not much but its there. This gives them strength and stops the popping in and out.
#10 If your just roughing paint then 320 grit is fine. 150 will leave scratches that will have to be filled or they will show. 150 is fine for going to metal for the shallow dings because all the fillers I am familuar with have to go over bare metal (rage might be different tho). You can use glaze (comes in a tube) in rock chips insted of taking it down to metal is you want.
#14 I have painted cars for over 40 years and have never taken the trim off of a window unless there was rust under it. Just use care when masking and save some work.
Since you want white , make sure you cover the entire car in primer (light gray or white) before your color coats. You want the underbase coat all the same color and the lighter the better because that WILL affect the top coat.I painted a truck dark red matallic and the hood had 2 different colors of primer on it....yep..... you could see them (at least I could) when it was clean and in certain angles. It was my work truck so it was not a big deal to me. Most people would never notice tho but your mileage may very.
Sounds like quite a project. What are you going to butcher on the car?
Good luck
Mike

Mike - thanks for the tips. Last time I did bodywork was pre-internet, so there's a lot more DIY info available now, and the materials are better. Getting a roof skin is a great idea, BUT non-sunroof E30's in the USA are rare, and very much in demand. There will not be one in a wrecking yard in Las Vegas. If I could find one, I'd just buy the shell and build around that. The window seal locking strips are faded & need replacing, so it's not that much extra work to remove the seals as well (unless the glass cracks). And I suck at masking.

Question: can the primer be rolled on just like the paint? What would be a good primer for the Interlux Brightside?
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Re: E30 BMW - PAINT PLAN SO FAR

Post by funcrew on November 7th 2009, 2:25 am

RoboGeek wrote:sounds like a fun car.. gonna autocross it or just give it 'the look'
Autocross for sure, but also my daily driver, including teenage taxi service to wrestling practice, youth group, etc. Will run in SCCA STX, unless I fix the rear suspension geomety (camber adjustment) which would bump me to a higher class - CSP, street mod? I haven't looked closely at the rules. The E30 is fun and fairly fast (for the money) in cone racing, but not really competitive in most classes. Most E30's are now rough cosmetically - the paint gets fried after 20 years, and they are not valuable enough to justify the cost of a quality turn-key paint job.
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Re: E30 BMW - PAINT PLAN SO FAR

Post by Dave74 on November 7th 2009, 10:43 am

why not the JB Weld, use that stuff for everything, and never had any problems with it...easy to sand, file, shape, feather, and holds up better than my first marriage did...
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