Bare Sandblasted metal.Prime before Rustoleum roll method?

I Just had a old Metal Jeep hardtop Sandblasted today. It still has some dark discoloration in the pitted areas that I want to spray some rust converter on but other than that I am starting out with a Bare metal top that has been sandblasted.

Should I Prime this with the same roll on Method and wet sanding? Or should I just use Rustoleum paint with no primer base?

Also I noticed the Rustoleum can states to use acetone if i want to thin it, but I see alot of guys are using 100% mineral spirits when doing the roll on method..

Which one should I use acetone or the mineral spirits and if I do have to prime on the bare metal do I use acetone or Mineral spirits with the Primer?

I purchased the Gloss white in the Rustolem professional line to use on this top if that helps.

Any suggestions or guidance?
Thanks ahead of time!

I am a firm believer in primer on bare metal.
The reason for mineral spirits is it sets up slower then acetone. That allows the rolling out of the paint better and the ability to work the roller marks away. Thinner for primer will depend on what primer you get. However it is always recommended to stay in the same family of products on any project.Good luck.
Mike

Thank you for the reply.

I Wonder if I shouldn't just thin teh Rustoleum with the acetone and spray it? I have that capability and have done a few cheapo paint jobs with a old binks syphon gun. I wonder it that would be a better alternative?

I always primer, even over paint.

You can spray. Most of us could have too, but preferred rolling due to no messy overspray and less taping..

Spraying is a good option on cars with complex compound curves where rolling would be hard

I am wondering if I can get away without the million sanding intervals if I shoot it on?

Or does that even have to be sanded in between coats?

Thanks for the help!

No sanding between sprayed coats here. After body work I mask and spray I light coat, two regular heavy coats and then a final coat over reduced and that is misted on from 18in or so away. the extra thinner in the last coat helps to level it (hopefully no orange peel (LOL). Of course you have to wait for the paint to tack up between coats.
With any luck you won't even have to sand and buff but if you are like me, I'm usually not that lucky but at least I only color sand once and then buff. Following this method the o.p. is usually minamal.
If you spray you can probably use the acetone. Do a test panel with each and see which you like best.
Mike

I suggest at least 2 coats of rustoleum primer over metal and/or old paint, as this will make the surface easier to cover with fewer coats, especially if your color will be white. That's what I did and it still took 4-5 coats to cover, and I finished with 8 coats after the primer. Remember to THIN THE PAINT since it is much easier to apply another coat then to sand off the orange peel...
Good luck and have fun!!!
Marc in SF
63 Comet
http://whitecomet.co.nr/

acetone is now the recommended thinner because it is EPA compliant. "Less aromatics", Paint thinner is now only to be used for cleaning. Because of the somewhat new regulations, directions on the paint cans have changed to protect manufacturers from the EPA Nazis.