Brightside and clear coat

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Brightside and clear coat

Post by btldigger on December 17th 2007, 1:02 pm

I have sprayed brightside on a boat but im starting a new project. I am wondering if a urathane clear could be used over brightside. I plan on painting a black base then having some airbrush work done. The airbrush guy will clear coat when he is done. This will be on a jet ski the bottom wont be cc only the topside. I had originally planned on doing the bottom with brightside then have a shop do bc/cc on the topside. But I ran across the moparts site and saw the results that people were getting and changed my plans. This time I will be rolling instead of using the hvlp gun.
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Re: Brightside and clear coat

Post by Matt on December 20th 2007, 1:22 am

what is this "brightside" Is it another form of enamel similar to the rustoleum? huh

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Re: Brightside and clear coat

Post by (null).exe on December 20th 2007, 2:26 am

Matt wrote:what is this "brightside" Is it another form of enamel similar to the rustoleum? huh

brightside is a marine paint for boat sides. it's more expensive than rustoleum (a lot more expensive) but you don't need to mix it with mineral spirits and it has self leveling chemicals that are supposed to help prevent OP
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Re: Brightside and clear coat

Post by btldigger on December 20th 2007, 2:29 am

No it is the marine paint that some are using. It is a 1 part urethane with teflon added to it.
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Re: Brightside and clear coat

Post by Matt on December 20th 2007, 8:47 am

oh I'll have to check that out

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Re: Brightside and clear coat

Post by leeiaccoca on December 21st 2007, 6:28 pm

I didn't use Interlux, but I did use a Polyurethane Boat Paint by BlueWater Marine. Based on a writeup I found, I decided to thin this Polyurethane with just 10% mineral spirits for a 90/10 ratio. I thought: "You don't need to do any 50/50 poly/mineral spirits crap, right? The poly levels on its own, so no orange peel even without a ton of mineral spirits, right?

Well, the first coat of this 90/10 went on, but the paint at that ratio was way too thick. It didn't level well at all. Once it dried, I ended up having to sand most it off to get rid of the orange peel. Then I had to start over. I ultimately went with a 50/50 ratio for the Polyurethane, just as you are advised to do with the Rustoleum.

So, I'd say be a little cautious, save yourself an ungodly amount of sanding and thin your Polyurethane around 50/50, especially if you have a dark color paint that is more likely to show flaws, OP etc.

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Re: Brightside and clear coat

Post by btldigger on December 22nd 2007, 12:46 am

Yes it needs to be thinned I had used it previously to paint my boat. That time I used a hvlp gun and shot it . Later I went back and painted a stripe on it with a foam brush and it worked great . Fist time was yellow this time its black. I just have to finish up a little more glass work so the painting can begin. Now if the temps will just cooperate. Very Happy
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Re: Brightside and clear coat

Post by mazdawg78 on December 23rd 2007, 7:10 pm

you can use an automotive clear for brightside. its a urethane. so standard auto clear will go over it. as for enamel users. kirker company makes an auto grade clear for you as well. havent tried it though.

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