RIM POLISHING TEST

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RIM POLISHING TEST

Post by stang_krazy on March 1st 2010, 11:52 pm

TRYING A NEW PRODUCT AND WOOL PAD COMBO,SO WILL TAKE SOME TIME TO GET A FEEL FOR THE TECHNIQUE! ALL IN ALL IT CAME OUT PRETTY GOOD,WITHOUT SANDING ALL THE SCRATCHES OUT. WILL DO ANOTHER ONE AT A LATER DATE WHEN I CAN GET SOME MORE 6''80-120-220-320-400-800 GRIT SANDING PAPER FOR MY DA TO REMOVE ALL THE SWIRLS AND SCRATCHES TO MAKE IT HAVE A TRUE MIRROR SHINE!
I'VE TAKING LOTS OF PICS TO SHOW THE STEPS AND WHATS INVOLVED IN THIS PROCESS.
THE FIRST FEW PICS SHOWS WHAT THE RIM LOOKED LIKE AFTER I STEAM CLEANED AND UP THROUGH THE ACID CLEANING STEP.




AND THESE PICS ARE AT WORK TO DO THE ACID CLEANING.




THIS IS THE ACID CLEANER SOAKING,I LET SOAK FOR 5 TO 7 MINUTES DEPENDS ON HOW BAD THE OXIDATION IS.


AND THIS IS AFTER WASHING OFF THE ACID.


ALMOST FORGOT TO SHOW WHAT I'M USING FOR THE ACID CLEANING STEP,SOMETIMES I MIX 50/50 WITH WATER BUT THIS TIME I SPRAY FULL STRENGTH.


HERE'S BACK IN MY GARAGE,I WENT AHEAD AND TAPED HALF OFF BECAUSE I THOUGHT IT WOULD BE BETTER TO SHOW THE HUGH BEFORE AND AFTER DIFFERENCE ON HERE!


THE NEXT 3 PICTURE ARE OF THE POLISH I'M TRYING OUT THIS TIME AND THE TABLE OF EVERYTHING INVOLVED IN THIS POLISH JOB AND THEN A GOOD UP-CLOSE OF THE NEW WOOL PAD I'M ALSO TRYING OUT.




THIS PIC IS TO SHOW ALL THE POLISH I'M USING FOR THIS SECTION


THIS IS AFTER POLISH WITH THE ROTARY ON 1500RPM'S,AND AFTER THE WIPE DOWN WITH A PREWIPE THAT REMOVES ANY WAXES AND GREASE, DIDN'T HAVE ANY MINERAL SPIRITS.


THIS PIC IS THE SECOND APPLICATION TOO CHECK ON HOW MUCH SHINE I CAN GET OUT UNTIL I DON'T SEE ANY CHANGE.


AND AFTER POLISHING OUTAND THE WIPE DOWN,STILL USING THE SAME SPEED.


THIS IS THE SAME AS THE LAST PIC ,JUST STANDING FURTHER BACK.


THIS PIC IS SHOWING HOW MUCH POLISH I'M USING FOR THE REST OF THE RIM.


THIS SHOT IS AFTER THE POLISHING AND BEFORE THE WIPE DOWN.


AFTER THE WIPE DOWN, AND WENT OVER THE WHOLE RIM 3 TIMES ALL TO GETHER.


THIS IS JUST A CLOSE UP OF THE FINISHED RIM AND THE PROCESS TO GET TO THIS POINT.AND TO SHOW THAT THESE RIMS NEED A GOOD SANDING.


THESE NEXT PICS ARE WITH SOME TAPE REMOVED TO SHOW THE BEFORE AND AFTER.


AND A CLOSE UP.


ANGLE SHOT.


LEVEL EYE SHOT.


THIS IS WHAT THE PAD AND MICRO-FIBER TOWEL LOOKS LIKE AFTER ABOUT 20 MINUTES OF POLISHING ALUMINUM.ON BIGGER PROJECTS I'LL USE ALOT MORE TOWELS AND MORE PADS. TO CLEAN THE MICRO-FIBER TOWELS I SOAK IN A BUCKET OF PURPLE POWER MIXED WITH WATER OVER NIGHT AND SOMETIMES LONGER DEPENDS ON HOW NASTY THEY ARE, AS FOR THE PAD I SOAK IN A BUCKET FEELED WITH HOT WATER AND A PRODUCT CALLED TSP(TRI SODIUM PHOSPHATE)I JUST THROUGH SO MUCH TSP POWDER IN,IT JUST DEPENDS ON HOW NASTY THE PADS ARE AND HOW MANY ARE IN MY BUCKET ON HOW MUCH TSP I THROUGH IN.


I know everyone likes pics and I like to show every step that I can. Hope you guys like these post I've put up and can't wait for the roll on test hoods I'm going to do and I first started posting on here the other day to learn how to post pics on here and just keep post some of my old write-ups. Have a couple more I might post up but alot of others is mostly buffing and test products so I might call it quits until I get some test hoods, don't know yet I'm having fun!![im[img]

Just to show the before and after close together,
After acid cleaned.

polished
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stang_krazy
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Re: RIM POLISHING TEST

Post by RoboGeek on March 2nd 2010, 9:33 pm

I've done a few alternators and intakes - the hardest part is grinding them smooth - but you can get a mirror shine out of them

When a rim get that pitted, I wonder how safe it is to grind then that much.. or would it be better to weld a little metal in - if thats even possible

but I will say that polished up, those would still look good, pits and all!
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Re: RIM POLISHING TEST

Post by stang_krazy on March 3rd 2010, 12:26 am

RoboGeek wrote:I've done a few alternators and intakes - the hardest part is grinding them smooth - but you can get a mirror shine out of them

When a rim get that pitted, I wonder how safe it is to grind then that much.. or would it be better to weld a little metal in - if thats even possible

but I will say that polished up, those would still look good, pits and all!
Good question.

When removing a scratch or swirls from any material (paint-metal whatever) you have to remove the material down to the bottom depth of the scratch or swirl to remove it. So on that point it's more or less just going on good judgement as to how much material your removing and your safty.

These heavy aluminum rims I was polishing out weighs about 65 lbs or more and they don't rely on balance but If I was to do a job like this I would work on the finer swirls and not try to get the deeper scratches out just improve some what but on the other hand a car/truck rim would be another story so removing to much material could cause a balancing problem.

Also I would never use a grinder on something like this, can and will remove to much to fast and then there's the heat issue! Just use sand paper like on paint start with just enough aggressive grit to do the job and then get finer so you can use a metal polish to buff away the finer sanding scratches to a mirror shine.

Hope that helps, any more questions just ask.
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