REMOVING PIN STRIPS AND DECALS

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REMOVING PIN STRIPS AND DECALS

Post by stang_krazy on March 22nd 2010, 12:31 am

Thought I would post up removing my pin strips and decals today since it was pretty nice out and wife and kids were gone and I had all day to find something to do.

Tried to capture everything I could but taking the pics (and praying I didn't drop my wifes camera on the floor like I did mine so many times before(she did threaten me.LOL! Really) and using the heat gun along with the plastic razor blades and trying to make sure I didn't burn my paint was alot at a time so hope you guys like this one.

First pic is of my new heat gun (went ahead and got the harbor frieght cheapo, on sale for $9.99 and I actually like it) speedy 500 (like goo-gone but alot stronger) and the plastic razor blades.


Also used my thermometer gun to keep check on the temp. so as not to burn or get my paint to hot.


OK over look how dirty my jeep is but going to give it a good washing along with a buff soon as I can to bring back out the paint so you can't see where the pin strips used to be and remove all the swirls. Bought this jeep just for a work vehicle to go back on the strip jobs so this is one reason it looks so bad with all the swirls, since I've been layed off I fiqured I will start doing some of the things to this jeep that I didn't like and try at least to help the looks alittle. After all it will be going back on the strip jobs and after one week it's all over for a perfect finish so that's way I'm not being perfect with the paint, If it weren't for this reason I would have washed it before starting any of this. Here's a pic of the nasty strips and starting on the driver side going towards the back and then down the passenger side.


Here 3 more pics, 2 decals and a dealer emblem I'm also going to be removing.



And the dealer emblem, I hate these things on a vehicle!!!!!


Getting started more or less, seeing how hard these were to get started and remove.
!

The red strip was pretty easy could have did the whole thing in about 20 minutes or so if it were just it by itself or if the other strip would have been this easy, but the grey strip was a pain! Had to heat it up and then scrape and scrape and scrape with the razor blade and my finger nail to get it started. It would start then break off after about a quarter inch or so!


Thought I would show how hot your surface can get using a heat gun for just a few seconds. I was using the low setting and moving back and forth about a 8'' long area and holding the heat gun about 3 or 4'' away from the paint for about 6 or 7 seconds and here's how hot the surface got.(DO NOT KEEP ON ONE SPOT NOT EVEN FOR A SECOND OR TWO, JUST LIKE USING A ROTARY BUFFER KEEP IT IN MOTION. IF YOU LEAVE ON ONE SPOT WITHOUT MOVING YOU CAN AND WILL BURN YOUR PAINT)


Here's how easy the red strip was coming off.


Both strips gone from the front fender. Only took about 10 to 12 minutes, and still need to remove the glue residue.LOL!


Using a micro-fiber towel along with the speedy 500 to apply to the glue residue, I spray the speedy on the micro-fiber and rub along where the strip used to be and keeping it wet for a few seconds to let the speedy saturate and make glue residue easyer to scrub off with the plastic razor blade.


Here's after using another micro-fiber to wipe off the speedy and glue residue. You can also see on the left side of the pic that I'm using the brinkmann dual xenon light again to help you see how it turned out.


Took me about 20 minutes or so to get to this point

almost forgot to mention that after I wiped off the speedy and the glue residue I would spray last touch spray detailer over the whole area and then wipe off with a micro-fiber just for the last touch.

From another angle and after using last touch.

did start getting faster on the other panels after I got the right technique down.

Takin the sport decal off, heated for just a second and then got it started and came right off.

Gone.


Starting to look so much better already


All done with this side!


Forgot about this until I got to the rear door, Used to have some molding down the sides (with wide red strips in the middle of the moldings,FUGLY)and I removed these about a month ago so now I have to start removing the residue that came off the molding later.


This was as easy as the red strip so it's going to be fast work.


Now for the dealer emblem. Used heat gun about 3'' back in forth until I could start pulling on the edge then moved from on end until the other end until it was removed. As you can see the nasty old tape from the dealer emblem left.


Did the same technique as for the other strips.


Also wiped speedy over the glue residue and used the plastic razor blade to remove it all. As you can see this was alittle tougher then the other residue and did scratch the surface under where the tape used to be, but Ultimate compound and a W8006 polishing pad will get rid of these and all the others all over the vehicle in a week or two. I just don't know about were the dealers name was at, going to be interesting to find out?


Man it's been along time since I've applied this many pics in a post!!
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Re: REMOVING PIN STRIPS AND DECALS

Post by 63Falconconvert on March 22nd 2010, 1:03 pm

great pixs! What is Speedy 500?
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Re: REMOVING PIN STRIPS AND DECALS

Post by retired plumber on March 22nd 2010, 6:42 pm

Nice. How would you go about removing the 4 litre and cherokee badges? I am an old lead sled type guy and for me they would be one of the first things to go. They are held on by tape also I would think so would the heat work for them also?
Mike
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Re: REMOVING PIN STRIPS AND DECALS

Post by RoboGeek on March 22nd 2010, 7:12 pm

those are double sided tape too - different than the dealer used though. Its a black goo thing. You can buy it to replace the emblems if you should want to

btw.. my heat gun is for SMT electronics. I can apply heat in as small of an area as half a pinstripe!! lol
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Re: REMOVING PIN STRIPS AND DECALS

Post by stang_krazy on March 22nd 2010, 8:08 pm

Hey falcon

Speedy 500 is a product much like goo-gone but stronger and much better at removing glue residue. I started using this product when I worked at a gm dealer ship, I was removing strips again and run out of this so on last minute time I had to get some goo-gone and man did it take forever. Did a little test once using speedy 500 and goo-gone on some old pin strips and on one side I used almost the whole bottle down the driver side and on the passenger side I didn't use half of what I used on the other side.

Hey Mike

Yeah if they was held on by tape, same procedure. I'm like you I do not like bages-emblems-decals or the pin strips on a vehicle.

The reason I didn't remove the 4.0 litre emblem was because I used to remove everything like that on a vehicle and did the same procedures on my ranger and when I did the ford emblem on the back of the tailgate, I knowed I messed up when I got it started but had to go ahead and finish it but it had three alignment holes behind it and that little mishap cost me somewhere over $20.00 to replace.

So that's the reason for not taking the 4.0 litre emblem and cherokee off, I checked best I could without doing any damage or loosing the emblem to much and I may be wrong but I do believe they do have the alignment holes in the panels so I'm finished with this procedure until I check more on the backing like RoboGeek stated.


Last edited by stang_krazy on March 23rd 2010, 1:36 am; edited 1 time in total
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Re: REMOVING PIN STRIPS AND DECALS

Post by RoboGeek on March 22nd 2010, 9:03 pm

I took my chevrolet and cavalier emblems off - goo-b-gone didn't remove the residue, but I sanded down to near bare metal anyway because of the clear coat failure

Dealer sells the adhesive strip for like $15 to reattach.. I prefer people guessing what the car is. It only has the bowtie on the front
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Re: REMOVING PIN STRIPS AND DECALS

Post by retired plumber on March 23rd 2010, 12:44 am

Stang
Glue and two sided tape are a customizer's dream now-a-days. When I was young (way way back in the day), all trim was held on with push pins or bolts or clips that fit over studs welded to the sheet metal so there was always holes to fill. When I did up my 1950 merc lead sled style (everything but chopped top), I filled well over 100 holes when the stainless came off. Did it the hard way with acetylene torch and coat hangers for welding rod. Yep, the good old days LOL.

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