1998 Dodge Dakota Sport 3.9L V6

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1998 Dodge Dakota Sport 3.9L V6

Post by JohnnyV on March 31st 2010, 12:52 pm

Hey everyone,

I am new to this site but I have been researching rolled paint jobs for several years. I actually attempted it once on this truck and had what I like to call a "WTF am I doing here" moment. So I sent it to Maaco for a really bad paint job. Then I tried it on the hood of my 66 Corvair. It turned out real nice, but I sold the car about a year ago. Now I am attempting to redo my truck. I am going to paint it Safety Orange using Rustoleum Professional on the body and the top is going to be Gloss BLack using the Rustoleum Professional. I don't know if it will turn out like I think it will in my head but it is worth a try. I have about 175,000 miles on it and I am planning on running the wheels off of it. So A little dress up would be nice. I will continue to post pics of my progress.
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Re: 1998 Dodge Dakota Sport 3.9L V6

Post by 63Falconconvert on March 31st 2010, 1:03 pm

Welcome Johnny,
Your truck will turn out great, we will make sure of it. Don't be afraid to ask questions and we really like pics. Great bunch of guys on this forum, glad you found us.
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Re: 1998 Dodge Dakota Sport 3.9L V6

Post by buckz on March 31st 2010, 3:11 pm

Hi Johnny!!!

This will be a fun project for you, I know that I am having a good time painting my Jeep. You will run into a bunch of questions like I have, but never fear....the people on this forum have the answers. Good luck with your project and please post progress, questions and photos Smile
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Re: 1998 Dodge Dakota Sport 3.9L V6

Post by stang_krazy on March 31st 2010, 4:20 pm

Welcome to rolled on Johnnyv

Looking forward to your pics as well thumbs up
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Re: 1998 Dodge Dakota Sport 3.9L V6

Post by JohnnyV on March 31st 2010, 6:28 pm

Hey thanks for the awesome welcome!

I am going to post some pics of my tail gate. I have done five coats so far. I don't know if I am thinning the paint too much because I am not getting good coverage. I thought I was going to see coverage after 4 or 5 coats.

Here is what I started with.

I dropped the tailgate while driving down the interstate at about 70 mph. It was late at night and when I looked in my rear view mirror, all I saw was a shower of sparks...(the most majestic thing I ever saw!). Anyway, this is what I am left with a year later.

Here it is prepped.


Here is the third coat of paint. The 4th and 5th coats don't cover any more. (messy garage)


The paint is very smooth and extremely hard. Am I applying the paint too thin?
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Re: 1998 Dodge Dakota Sport 3.9L V6

Post by T.Hadley on March 31st 2010, 7:59 pm

Might be a little thin, but because of the color change I would have primered it all to start with one color
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Re: 1998 Dodge Dakota Sport 3.9L V6

Post by JohnnyV on March 31st 2010, 10:48 pm

T.Hadley wrote:Might be a little thin, but because of the color change I would have primered it all to start with one color

Originally I did prime it, but it wiped right off when I cleaned it. I don't know if I did it wrong but it just wiped off with a rag. Anyway, I resanded it and just applied the rustoleum. So far it has adhered real well, and it is rock hard. The reason I didn't bother priming the second time was because I read the original thread on Moparts.org and it said that you could apply right over the body filler. Here are a few links of people who applied right over the primer.

http://www.rickwrench.com/index79.htm

http://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Cat=0&Number=2331682&page=0&fpart=1&vc=1

The second one is a lot of reading. I couldn't find where it talked about painting without priming, but I know it's in there.

Looking back...I should have just primed it. doh Oh well, I'll just continue as I am going...for now.
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Re: 1998 Dodge Dakota Sport 3.9L V6

Post by T.Hadley on March 31st 2010, 11:23 pm

That's weird about the primer, what type was it?

Yes you can apply right over body filler bare metal etc. all I was saying is it makes it easier to do a color change.

I have read both them sites good info on both.

T.
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Re: 1998 Dodge Dakota Sport 3.9L V6

Post by retired plumber on March 31st 2010, 11:43 pm

Hi JohnnyV
I agree with the others. In fact you may want to get some white spray can primer and do the tailgate before going any farther. I have been painting as a hobby for 40+ years and one thing I have learned is you want the base (what you put the new color on) all one color or as close as you can get. drastically different colors like you have WILL show through as you are finding..There is a reason most primer is a light color because it will reflect through the top coat unless it is black or a real dark color. That is also why most custom painters put a white on before any final color.

Your truck is white so I suggested the spray can stuff as I know there will be other spots as well as you progress. Also you need to put primer over body filler. It is porus and it needs the primer to fill the minute stuff. The guys on mopar are right in the fact you can put rusto right over filler but a coat of primer first makes a better job and causes less work in the long run.

I sprayed my work truck a dark red metallic but had 2 colors of primer on the hood. Usually 4 coats will do but still, I could see the outlines and shading of the different primers, and as near as I can tell, 4 sprayed coats equal 10-12 rolled coats. Do yourself a favor and prime it so its all white. You WILL like the outcome better. I promise.

Mike
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Re: 1998 Dodge Dakota Sport 3.9L V6

Post by 63Falconconvert on April 1st 2010, 8:31 am

looks great! love the orange.
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Re: 1998 Dodge Dakota Sport 3.9L V6

Post by JohnnyV on April 1st 2010, 8:47 am

T.Hadley wrote:That's weird about the primer, what type was it?

Yes you can apply right over body filler bare metal etc. all I was saying is it makes it easier to do a color change.

I have read both them sites good info on both.

T.

I guess i was hoping you would say something like "Hey you don't need to start over, just keep going and you'll get the coverage." But I think I am going to have to start over. Poop. Oh well, this is my test piece, and I may just continue to do the entire truck now. I think I have gotten the bugs worked out of my technique.

Also, is there going to be a big difference between the roll on and the spray can colors? For instance, I was going to spray bomb the door jams, under the hood, etc. Or should I roller those too? I don't know. I may be getting ahead of myself.

Hadley, Mike, Thanks for the info.
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Re: 1998 Dodge Dakota Sport 3.9L V6

Post by RoboGeek on April 1st 2010, 4:53 pm

like plumber said.. and thats also a trick.. if you want it to appear brighter, use a white undercoat.. if you want it darker, use a black primer. Where we used to do that a lot was with candy paint. A gold base looked completely different than a silver base. With regular paint the effect is much more subtle, but as you can see.. different colored surfaces show through after several coats

the spray and the rolled matched perfectly on mine with safety red
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Re: 1998 Dodge Dakota Sport 3.9L V6

Post by JohnnyV on April 1st 2010, 10:26 pm

RoboGeek wrote:like plumber said.. and thats also a trick.. if you want it to appear brighter, use a white undercoat.. if you want it darker, use a black primer. Where we used to do that a lot was with candy paint. A gold base looked completely different than a silver base. With regular paint the effect is much more subtle, but as you can see.. different colored surfaces show through after several coats

the spray and the rolled matched perfectly on mine with safety red

I didn't know that. I thought that the primer was for adherence/filler. I don't know what I was thinking. I guess it makes sense though.

I'm gonna go with white primer because my truck is already white. I am trying to minimize the cost here.

Question: How do I prep/clean the primed area? Last time I primed it, the primer wiped right off with a rag and mineral spirits.

P.S. thanks everyone for the help. I've really learned a lot.
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Re: 1998 Dodge Dakota Sport 3.9L V6

Post by retired plumber on April 1st 2010, 10:42 pm

There is plain old primer, primer surfacer (filles minor scratches) and primer sealer.

I usually use cheap lacquer primer from the auto parts store and after a final touch up sand I wipe it down with a dry rag and then again with a tack rag. If you used lacquer primer you can wipe it with a "just moist" rag with mineral spirits. Lacquer thinner will cut regular enamel (oil based like rusto) but mineral spirits won't cut lacquer.

All you need to do to prime is just enough to make it white after a light scuff sand with 360 or so grit. Do this after all the body work is done tho.

Mike
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Re: 1998 Dodge Dakota Sport 3.9L V6

Post by Squire Cobra Jet on April 2nd 2010, 12:04 am

I like the Orange and Black combo. My first car a '82 Ford EXP had that color combination, which was about the best feature on that car, except for maybe the gas mileage of 40+MPG. It was a 4 speed and had no power, and was in the shop more than on the road. Gotta love those early Eighties cars, gutless wonders.

Welcome to the site!
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Re: 1998 Dodge Dakota Sport 3.9L V6

Post by T.Hadley on April 2nd 2010, 12:53 am

JohnnyV wrote:
RoboGeek wrote:like plumber said.. and thats also a trick.. if you want it to appear brighter, use a white undercoat.. if you want it darker, use a black primer. Where we used to do that a lot was with candy paint. A gold base looked completely different than a silver base. With regular paint the effect is much more subtle, but as you can see.. different colored surfaces show through after several coats

the spray and the rolled matched perfectly on mine with safety red

I didn't know that. I thought that the primer was for adherence/filler. I don't know what I was thinking. I guess it makes sense though.

I'm gonna go with white primer because my truck is already white. I am trying to minimize the cost here.

Question: How do I prep/clean the primed area? Last time I primed it, the primer wiped right off with a rag and mineral spirits.

P.S. thanks everyone for the help. I've really learned a lot.

I also found that some spray can primers will get soft when wiped with mineral spirits. so to prevent that I would use denatured alcohol on the primer to wipe down before paint, and all was good,
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Re: 1998 Dodge Dakota Sport 3.9L V6

Post by 63Falconconvert on April 2nd 2010, 8:09 am

wax/grease remover also works without melting primer.
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Re: 1998 Dodge Dakota Sport 3.9L V6

Post by retired plumber on April 2nd 2010, 9:19 pm

I never tried denatured alcohol. Good tip.
Mike
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Re: 1998 Dodge Dakota Sport 3.9L V6

Post by JohnnyV on April 2nd 2010, 9:46 pm

retired plumber wrote:I never tried denatured alcohol. Good tip.
Mike

I should have known. I once owned a '66 Corvair. And I tested this roll on method on the hood with white paint. I primed it and cleaned it with denatured alcohol. I had read though on one of the forums from moparts.com that you should clean it with mineral spirits. When I did it this time, the primer just wiped right off. I think I will go back to the denatured alcohol.

I am planning on jumping right in soon. I am going to do a three part process. I am going to start with the hood and front fenders. Then I will do the bed of the truck. And then I will finish with the cab since it is going to be two-tone. I'm getting anxious.
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Re: 1998 Dodge Dakota Sport 3.9L V6

Post by RoboGeek on April 2nd 2010, 9:57 pm

so are we.. as you can tell.. we are addicted to other peoples projects too!!!
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Re: 1998 Dodge Dakota Sport 3.9L V6

Post by JohnnyV on April 4th 2010, 10:07 pm

Alright. I am going to jump right in tomorrow morning. I have officially tested the technique on the tail gate, and I think that I have it down pretty good. Getting up tomorrow at 5am to start the wetsanding before work at 8am. I will hopefully roll a coat on, at least, the hood and front fenders.

My goal is to roll a 4 coats (+plus wetsand), or so, on the front end, then do the bed of the truck, and then finish up with the cab of the truck. Finally I will do the final 2 coats and wetsand/buff on the entire truck all at once.

I am second guessing the two-tone so that is why I am saving the cab of the truck 'til last so I can make that decision later.

I wonder though. Should I remove the grille, bumper, valance and roller those separately? Or can I just leave them on? I am thinking that I am going to have to drive this as I roller it. So I don't know how feasible it will be for me to remove these things every time I need to paint. I don't know.
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Re: 1998 Dodge Dakota Sport 3.9L V6

Post by RoboGeek on April 4th 2010, 11:01 pm

any areas that are hard to reach use a spray can of the same color. The more you remove, the better the quality just from the edging where the tape is.

At least take out headlights and taillights. You can get around the door handles and stuff and touch up later. The more you can take off, the better the result
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Re: 1998 Dodge Dakota Sport 3.9L V6

Post by retired plumber on April 5th 2010, 4:22 pm

Take of all you can. It sure makes it easier. I always (well, almost) take bumpers off. Most trim will come off easy these days and the grill should be easy also. I know its a bit more work but I think it makes the overall job easier. The tailights are held in by usually 6 screws and the headlights....well sometimes they can be a bear depending on what there is up front just behind them blocking access to their nuts and bolts.
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Re: 1998 Dodge Dakota Sport 3.9L V6

Post by JohnnyV on April 6th 2010, 2:34 pm

So the weather was not permitting for me to get to rolling, and I took last night off to watch the big Butler/Duke game Basketball . Too bad they lost. Anyhoo, I am hoping to get home tonight and get some sanding done. And hopefully I will get the front fenders and hood started soon.

retired plumber wrote:Take of all you can. It sure makes it easier. I always (well, almost) take bumpers off. Most trim will come off easy these days and the grill should be easy also. I know its a bit more work but I think it makes the overall job easier. The tailights are held in by usually 6 screws and the headlights....well sometimes they can be a bear depending on what there is up front just behind them blocking access to their nuts and bolts.
Mike

Plumber,
Bumper, headlights, tailights, grill all come off pretty easily, but I have to drive my truck every day to work. As long as it stays street legal. I think I can probably do the bumper pretty easily still on the truck if I take the grill and front valance off. I think I can drive without headlights (during the day) without detting pulled over as long as I have working turn signals, and those are really easy to remove (one screw). I may need the headlights in to get them to stay in place. I don't know. I'll play with it tonight.
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Re: 1998 Dodge Dakota Sport 3.9L V6

Post by buckz on April 6th 2010, 2:43 pm

You may want to paint after work as it will take 4-6 hours (depending on temp) for the paint to dry enough so it is not tacky. You dont want to pickup dirt and crap from the road in a new coat of paint.
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Re: 1998 Dodge Dakota Sport 3.9L V6

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