1966 Comet Capri

[b]Ok, so heres my project and my start. Its a 66 Comet Capri 4 door. Only surface rust mostly, Car was the faded factory blue but after sanding to get rid of the rust i realized it obviously needed a paint job.

I'm having a rough time with this roll on as i'm not sure I did a 1:1 ratio on the paint/mineral spirits thiner and I'm thinking its to thin because I have runs like no other (see pics of the fender), as well as fish eyes from the paint bubbling. Wrong rollers possibly? Do I need to start over or prime and start again? Im only on coats 2-3 on these peices and scared i did it wrong? Im afraid to continue until I know im on the right track. Help! haha.

Sanded off all the surface Rust & before trim is off.



Trim off





Removed the fender & cowl to paint better.





First coat





1 coat on the fender



2 coats







wet sanded





3 coats





Any suggestions?

Looks like you have too much paint on the roller. It needs to be much drier. Try sanding your panel then redo it with a drier roller.

Jim

Ok so I decided to try to brush. Much better! Here are the pieces I did today with coats 3 & 4, I will wet sand more tonight once they dry! I am much happier with the brush than the roller.

4th coat on the Cowl and Bumper shield









3rd coat on the fender Brushed not rolled





Coat 4 on the fender brushed not rolled.

Evan though many have not used it, I'd highly recommend priming before you paint. My 'Vair has been put on hold but will soon be attended to, only now I'll be priming first. Much better coverage, sooner.

I am going to try the hood where there is a lot of bare metal with one coat. If I dont get coverage or the paint doesn't stick then I will definately be priming. Thanks!

I did the headlight piece yesterday with 2 coats no primer brushed on and its holding a lot better than the beginning I think I just had the wrong brushes and mixture. So I may be ok for now. We will see.

Primer should go on before the paint you know. Also, if for some reason the paint dosen't stick, you do know it will have to be sanded off again. I suggest you prime the whole car first. All you need really is enough to get it one color.
Mike

Good point Mike. I'd hate to have to sand it all off. I just am not sure why primer is needed. I read the Rustoleum "Stops Rust" brand doesn't need primer because the agents are already in it. Bad post?

I did the headlight without primer and didn't roll it instead I brushed it on and it covered nicely. Not sure if I need it? How do you know?

I have not had any problems with my truck so far and I haven't primered any of the bare metal. I had some bare metal on the tail gate and some of my rust areas that I sanded and fixed and it is holding up just fine. I am only about half way through the process though. It does make a difference when you are looking for coverage because the different colors show through real easily. But then again you might just have to add one or two more coats to the process.

Thanks Jonny, that is what I am noticing as well. After originally starting I could see right through to the different colors and bare metal. However after the wet sanding and 4th coat it covered nicely. However when I wet sanded after the 4th coat the edges went back down to almost bare metal/original paint. But the rest of the car held its coat well. I just may have to go up to 8-10 coats like I figured on having so much paint removed.

So far I am liking the results on the car without primer and am worried the shade/color may change or darken if I do other peices with primer when these are without.

It really sucks when you've put 4 or 5 coats on and then you sand the edges down to metal.

Are you still brushing it on? What kind of brushes did you use? And were there a lot of brush strokes?

I am still brushing because the 4" High Density Foam rollers made MAJOR bubbles that DIDN'T pop and I ended up having to wet sand dow to metal to remove the fish eyes. Ugh so **** annoying! With the brush I used the 4" Foam Brushes (Generic brand) and as long as you blend the lines while wet you should be ok. I am also wet sanding down to dull grey in a Circular motion to try and remove the brush lines. A good buff job should be able to remove line streaks. I am going to see when I do another 2 coats. When it is done without wet sanding you really can't see the lines. When you wet sand is when you see it real bad.

The Headlight cover. No primer just 2 coats, not wet sanded yet.

1st coat




2nd coat

For those complicated curves on the headlight cover I would use spray in the same color. I did that on my door jams and it looks great. Several coats, wet sand, then one more and polish after a couple weeks. The paint color is dead on with my Regent Red.



Jim

Thanks! I feel so bad. I mean I knew it was hard but i seriously didn't think it was THIS difficult. Almost no one I talk to is having the bubble problem. What is going on!?

Ugh. Im almost ready to give up but I dont want to. I dont want to have to start over and I dont want to have to wet sand until my arm falls off! LOL

Sasy, no matter what happens you are going to wet sand....a lot. If you are applying enough pressure to make your "arm fall off" you are doing it wrong. Keep it wet, light pressure and let the sand paper do the work. I wet sanded the whole truck with 4 6X4" sheets. If you apply too much pressure you'll feel it "drag" and the paper will clog up.

I read a good tip here. Fill a spray bottle with water and add a few drops of dish soap in the water. That will add a bit of lubrication so the sand paper doesn't drag.

Just like the movie Karate Kid (the original) wax on...wax off. Smooth even pressure.

LOL Good advice Mr. Miaggi! haahaa.

I have dish soap in the water. The reason I am wet sanding is to remove the fish eyes at the ends of the runs that are still considered "highs" in the paint. So now i need to go all the way back down to the 1-2 coats I put on to remove them and start that spot over. Hopefully it will blend.

Lots of bubbles and runs, will happen when its to thin...

Get some of this and thicken up your mix.

http://images.google.com/imgres?imgurl=http://images.lowes.com/product/converted/010273/010273004100lg.jpg&imgrefurl=http://www.lowes.com/pd_41592-71-410_4294856802_4294937087%3FproductId%3D3033296&usg=__JRj1EjLA0-RYtQbEQgOyw_bZvOQ=&h=276&w=276&sz=13&hl=en&start=8&um=1&itbs=1&tbnid=6bgvdJdXD15fxM:&tbnh=114&tbnw=114&prev=/images%3Fq%3Dflood%2Bpenetrol%26um%3D1%26hl%3Den%26safe%3Doff%26sa%3DN%26tbs%3Disch:1

Look on pages 7 and 8 of my build, to see more info and results.

http://rolledon.forummotion.com/projects-f2/1976-mustang-cobra-t420.htmhttp://rolledon.forummotion.com/projects-f2/1976-mustang-cobra-t420.htm

Thanks I may need to look into this. I am just losing my patience and I've only done 1 major peice on the car. Ugh.

I am motivated to do it and get it done but I am just frustrated at this point.

Hang in there. One good piece and you will be remotivated!

Jim

Thanks Jim. Your are right. Because I was ready to give up on them after 2 coats and then when 3 & 4 went on I got really excited at the coverage. Not so happy at the mistakes still there but you learn and fix them and move on. Just wanted it to be such little mistakes no one can point them out.

Ya know? Not looking for Show quality but its nice to hear, "You did that?!" Especially being a chick.

Eh just also wish I had more time on my hands. Being the mother/wife and woman of the house my only time to work on this is the weekends and some weekdays if I am lucky.

Any thoughts on if its bad to paint when its a little cooler temps like 70's and raining? If I am in a garage? Does it work better in/out of the sun or no difference? Just curious before I start coats 5 & 6 which i plan to try rolling.

Hi, In my humble opinion it is best to paint in shade, over 50°, and keeping it dry.

I think once you get the technique down you will be thrilled and amazed at how good it will look!

I am very happy with my work so far, and keep comparing it to my new car paint. The shine is a bit down, but the orange peel is no worse, and the few little specs in the paint will buff out later, as well as the shine coming out.

Keep at it, you will hit your stride.

Jim

Stick with it and you will get it to meet your satisfaction.

Yea I noticed that too. I have way less orange peel than my new car well not so new its an '06 but it does look better than it.

If you are getting "fish eyes",then your surface is contaminated and needs to be cleaned better. I "have" been able, sometimes, to fill the fish eye with a drop of paint on a tooth pick tho.

As for painting temperature, You DO NOT want to be in the direct sun. If the metal of the car feels hot to your touch, its too hot. Ideal temp is around 70 degrees. Hotter and the paint dries faster, cooler and it dries slower but knowing this can also be used for your benefit also when planning the job.

I think chicks that like to work on cars are hot.

Mike

Lol mike! Thanks everyone. I will be testing it again this weekend. I've been down sick with something viral. So I've been on bed rest since Friday. Hopefully I can get back on it this week or weekend.