68 Mustang Coupe

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Re: 68 Mustang Coupe

Post by ANeat on December 22nd 2010, 3:17 am

I like the Shelby stripes a lot

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Re: 68 Mustang Coupe

Post by Roadking41a on December 22nd 2010, 12:40 pm

ANeat wrote:I like the Shelby stripes a lot


X2 I like it the best too.
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Re: 68 Mustang Coupe

Post by 63Falconconvert on December 22nd 2010, 4:30 pm

Shelby stropes look sweet. Do you have the rear spoiler package? The stripes may look a little weird without the spoiler, just my opinion.
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Re: 68 Mustang Coupe

Post by snafu on December 22nd 2010, 5:40 pm

Man those pictures look familiar!

You're making very good progress. Can't wait to see it finished.
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Re: 68 Mustang Coupe

Post by Tommy Hillbilly on December 22nd 2010, 8:56 pm

I'm partial to the C-stripe myself. And up top, I would want only the single black stripe down the hood with the scoop, like they made the '68 428CJ cars.

But with the GT/CS side scoops, I would stick to the '67 GT, or GT/CS style side stripes if any.

I'd want some sort of GT lights in the grill too...
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Re: 68 Mustang Coupe

Post by rmdhokie on December 23rd 2010, 5:45 pm

I don't have the fiberglass trunk spoiler and end caps to make the Shelby stripes work. Agree that stripes don't look right without it.
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Re: 68 Mustang Coupe

Post by 63Falconconvert on December 23rd 2010, 6:01 pm

what about painting the stripe on the hood only and not over the roof and trunk lid, then the stripe on the rocker panels. Just throwing out ideas
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Re: 68 Mustang Coupe

Post by rmdhokie on December 23rd 2010, 6:28 pm

That's exactly the paint scheme I'm leaning towards.
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Re: 68 Mustang Coupe

Post by 63Falconconvert on December 23rd 2010, 6:46 pm

can you buy the spoiler or is it stupid money
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Re: 68 Mustang Coupe

Post by rmdhokie on December 23rd 2010, 10:23 pm

I've priced the trunk lid and end caps at $450-500. Then you spend many hours trying to make them fit correctly. I like the look, but I also like the chrome molding too that goes with the lid I have now.
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Re: 68 Mustang Coupe

Post by 63Falconconvert on December 23rd 2010, 11:31 pm

wow that is a lot of money.... the chrome trim looks good, it would be a lot of work to fill in all the holes. Then having to deal with the morons saying "it's not a real Shelby" is a real pain.
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Re: 68 Mustang Coupe

Post by Tommy Hillbilly on December 24th 2010, 2:46 am

rmdhokie wrote:I've priced the trunk lid and end caps at $450-500. Then you spend many hours trying to make them fit correctly. I like the look, but I also like the chrome molding too that goes with the lid I have now.
OK. How good are you with bondo? Laughing

Wow, I never realized that the GT/CS lid was different, I figured that they just bolted a fiberglass piece onto the standard lid.

If it was me, I'd go for it (with bondo, not $$$). A spare decklid and caps would be nice because then you could have both! But then you'd have to do the taillights too.

Rocker stripes like the '67 GTs had, will work nicely. The key with those is to apply them with all 4 wheels on the ground and the car settled. Sometimes you'll see them crooked, because people had the car on jack-stands when they did the stripes. (Better a sore back, than a crooked stripe!)
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Re: 68 Mustang Coupe

Post by rmdhokie on December 31st 2010, 4:13 pm

Back to the project after a few days off for Christmas. All these Bowl Games makes it hard to get in the garage as well.

Here's a few pics of block sanding results. Primer/Surfacer sands pretty easily. Got most of rear quaters and roof done with 220 grit. It's amazing how NOT flat the car is. Went through to body filler/bare metal in a few areas. I'll spray some primer on those areas and blend when I wet sand.



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Re: 68 Mustang Coupe

Post by Roadking41a on January 1st 2011, 12:16 am

What Makes the trunk lid different for the GT/CS Mustang?
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Re: 68 Mustang Coupe

Post by rmdhokie on January 1st 2011, 4:19 pm

GT/CS trunk lids have the duck tail spoiler and require the rear quarter end caps to match. Aside from being expensive, they are fiberglass and require a lot of work to fit correctly. GT/CS also had the shelby tail light panel. I like the look, but I also like the chrome molding on the standard trunk and end caps.


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Re: 68 Mustang Coupe

Post by retired plumber on January 4th 2011, 4:30 pm

I agree. Stay with what you have. I think they look a whole bunch nicer and I was there when you could buy then new. In fact I did buy a new fastback in 67 and could have had the GT/CS if I wanted but didn't care for them then either.
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Re: 68 Mustang Coupe

Post by rmdhokie on January 11th 2011, 11:23 pm

finished block sanding, got the front wet sanded as well...almost time for color!
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Re: 68 Mustang Coupe

Post by 63Falconconvert on January 15th 2011, 8:57 pm

sounds like you're making good progress, any new pictures?
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Re: 68 Mustang Coupe

Post by rmdhokie on January 17th 2011, 3:02 pm

Well, I'm done with wet sanding the whole car with 3M 400 grit, very smooth to touch and a slight gloss. cheers However, I did sand through to bare metal in a few spots, mostly on the edges/curves of body lines. I changed my plans slightly: I've decided to roll Brightside Gloss White instead of Rusto Gloss White. At this point I have a couple of options and would like some opinions from the roller veterans here given I already have 1 can of Rusto Gloss white, penetrol, MS and a few bare metal spots.

Should I: (1) roll 2-4 coats of Rusto to establish a good base and rust protection on bare spots, then top with 4-6 coats of Brightside or (2) go back and spot prime bare spots, wet sand again, and do the whole paint process with Brightside, or (3) not worry about the bare spots and go straight to Brightside now.

Here's a few pics:




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Re: 68 Mustang Coupe

Post by Tommy Hillbilly on January 18th 2011, 4:30 pm

The Rustoleum is OK to apply on bare metal, I've read of a few people doing that. I've not heard of anyone doing that with the Topside, but I'd venture that it's probably OK - as long as the bare spots are small.
If it were me, I'd just hit the bare spots with some rattle can primer, blend the texture with sandpaper, and be done with it.
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Re: 68 Mustang Coupe

Post by snafu on January 18th 2011, 5:26 pm

Brightside makes two primers - one for bare metal and one to go over paint. The one for paint probably acts like a sealer. I would hit the bare spots with the rusto then use the Brightside primer for paint (Prekote I think its called) on the whole car. Its expensive, like the paint, but you can get it in white so you may be able to get by with fewer paint coats.

I have a couple of spots on my car where its a little bumpy from some sort of chemical reaction. I'm pretty sure its from doing bodywork after I had primed and not priming those areas again before paint.
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Re: 68 Mustang Coupe

Post by Noah Zarq on January 18th 2011, 10:40 pm

I'd save the rusto for another project, then prime the whole shebang again with Topside primer. I painted my son's Nissan with rusto right over some bare metal and it has held up well, but Topside makes a metal primer for a reason I'd say.
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Re: 68 Mustang Coupe

Post by rmdhokie on January 19th 2011, 8:58 pm

Thanks for the suggestions. I went back and spot primed all bare metal with Rusto auto primer. Working on wet sanding...again. I was looking forward to moving to the painting stage. I'm also now mulling the idea of using Rusto Marine Topside in gloss white.
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Re: 68 Mustang Coupe

Post by rmdhokie on January 29th 2011, 5:47 pm

I finished wet sanding the car. Then, I spent the last few days experimenting with Rusto Marine Topside and trying to get the rolling technique down on a test panel (18 x 36 piece of scrap metal). I prepped the test panel with same materials (Duplicolor primer/surfacer and Rusto Auto Primer) I have on the car to test adhesion and overall compatability of the paint.

Results are very favorable with the Topside paint; it leveled well and has very good gloss. Adhesion appears to be good with no wrinkling or other paint reaction problems. The 5th coat is drying now on the test panel and I'm satisfied enough with the paint and confident enough with the technique to stop further coats on the test panel and make the leap to the Stang. Coverage looks good for 5 coats but I think 8 coats will be the magic number for me.

The mix I used is 3 parts paint, 1.5 parts penetrol, .5 part MS.

Technique I used: (1) wetsand with 400 grit, (2) cleaned panel with denatured alcohol, (3) roll a very thin coat, (4) let dry for 24 hours (5) repeat steps 2-4 for coat #2, (6) wetsand with 600 grit, (7) repeat steps 2-4 for coats #3-4 (8.) wetsand with 800 grit, (9) repeat for steps 2-4 for coat #5.

I know "thin coat" can be subjective. I saturated the roller really well then rolled most of the paint back into the tray, then for good measure tipped the roller on end and pressed even more paint out of the roller. I applied firm pressure rolling the panel spreading the paint evenly across the panel. I got plenty of bubbles, but they immediately starting popping by themselves. I did use a second clean roller to skim (just weight of roller)over panel, but I was surprised to see there wasn't many bubbles to pop.

Not any ground-breaking developments just my experience so far with process I've learned mostly here on this forum.

Here's a few photos:
Materials

Coat#3 wet

Very bright white compared to my daughter's white Volvo

Coat #5 Wet
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Re: 68 Mustang Coupe

Post by 63Falconconvert on February 2nd 2011, 11:27 am

That looks really "flat" for not being wet sanded. Does the paint seem to be durable?
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Re: 68 Mustang Coupe

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