My 1965 C-10 Shop Truck: "Faux-tina Paint or Bust"

I have a 1965 C10 short wheel base stepside pickup that has been my "therapy" truck for the last 3 years. No hurry to finish it, just a cool old truck that I enjoy modifying / customizing. Here is my build thread: http://talk.classicparts.com/showthread.php?t=13928


The plan is to try to replicate an old worn out paint job on the truck. I started the patina process, and the step side bed is the "test bed", so to say. The process has thus far been a one step forward, one step back process.

First step was to clean all the "Gibbs" off the parts that I had covered them in last November (basically just wiped the parts off with xylene). The Gibbs did a really good job of protecting the parts for the last 7 months.

The plan is to go with Sherwin Williams Industrial products. There is a Sherwin Williams nearby and when I explained to the guy that manages the store what I was doing he seemed genuinely interested in this project. He set me up with some Sherwin Williams Kem-Flash Primer E61 R 26. When I first started using it I realized it dries way to quick, which makes brush and roller application practically impossible (Remember its a Patina paint job... that's how it's done). So then I read the "Application Data Sheet and it specifically states "spray only due to short dry time" (imagine that, :dohh: read first dummy! ) It's also too red (see photo below), needs to be more of a brownish tint for the patina effect to look correct.

Using my trusty "strip disc" and angle grinder I removed the 3 day old Kem-Flash. In the process I realized just how good the primer adhesion was. It took roughly twice as long to remove the new primer than the original paint and primer.

Next up: Sherwin Williams Kem Kromik primer. It is slower drying and is more of a brown shade of red oxide primer.

Here are some sketches and a couple photos, lots more to come as things progress....

My Amateur Conceptual Sketch


Parts ready for primer


Removing the test coat of primer



While the truck was out basking in the sunshine I did a quick walk around and interior video too. Other than making a dash pad the interior is done.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oYbRYHHm640 http://www.youtube.com/user/JohnDenverized?feature=mhee#p/u/8/taWVleeCBtc

Primed the step side bed components with Sherwin Williams Kem-Kromik brown (red-oxide) primer. It really lays down nice and the color was spot on, at least IMO, for “Hot Rod Primer”. Used a 4 inch roller and a brush and will be applying at least one more coat.





Rolled on the second coat of primer. The extra thickness and texture is needed so that, after application of color, the primer will show through the paint after wet sanding.





The wife wanted a 'preview' of the finished fauxtina look and I figured the tailgate was a good place to do that. We both like the red-oxide primer so much we are toying with leaving it primered (When I first bought the truck that was my plan).

Added some color to the inside of the tailgate, Rustoleum Orange rattle can. Wetsanding to follow.



Here is what the inside of the tailgate looks like after sanding with some 320 grit. I need to knock down the gloss in the crevices with some red Scotch-brite pads.

Pretty stoked about how this turned out as it just what we were looking for.

Lakeroadster wrote:

Cool truck!

Is that through to the metal, on the gate?

Lake,
First off your shop is awesome. I like the 33/34 and "A" grill shells hanging on the wall. Is that an old Shwinn Orange Krate bike I see sitting up on the shelf????
Ok back to the topic, the tail gate looks great. I think you hit the "original pantina" look spot on. Do I see some faded door graphics then the truck is finished?

Tommy Hillbilly wrote:
Cool truck!
Is that through to the metal, on the gate?

No, it is primer. The primer is rolled on with a regular "house paint" type roller which leaves a lot of texture. Then the color coat was rattle can sprayed on. Then you sand the part which exposes the primer underneath.

63Falconconvert wrote:Lake,
First off your shop is awesome. I like the 33/34 and "A" grill shells hanging on the wall. Is that an old Shwinn Orange Krate bike I see sitting up on the shelf????
Ok back to the topic, the tail gate looks great. I think you hit the "original pantina" look spot on. Do I see some faded door graphics then the truck is finished?

The bike is an old Huffy. Has the original Slick rear tire and three speed "nutcracker" shifter.

Graphics are planned for the doors "Hot Rod Fabricators"... it's a shop truck so it has to have door art

Verrry neat concept. I like it. My one suggestion would be tho on your primer. You need a primer/sealer because that is water proof. Regular primer will let moisture through and pretty soon you will "real patina".
Mike

I love the patina look!! Going to look awesome,keep up the great work,I agree with mike that does need to be a sealer,or the rust will take over.

Really cool idea!

retired plumber wrote:Verrry neat concept. I like it. My one suggestion would be tho on your primer. You need a primer/sealer because that is water proof. Regular primer will let moisture through and pretty soon you will "real patina".
Mike

I hear ya guys and thanks for looking out for me. I live in a semi-arid climate here in Colorado... and the entire concept of this build is for it to be an old rusty shop truck.... so if mother nature kicks in and helps out thats a good thing, at least from my perspective.

We used this primer when I worked back in Ohio on bare steel and it held up for years with no top coating. Granted, it got chalky, but again, that will add to "the look".

I sprayed the Rustoleum rattle can "Hugger Orange" on the stepside bed components today. Pretty stoked about seeing color on body panels
I see a lot of color sanding in my future.

I live in Tucson Az and things do actually rust a bit, even down here. Mother Nature patina is fine but I just didn't want to see a neat old truck end up with heavy patina (holes) in it.
Still a neat idea. Who says you can't customise with a roller?
Mike

Looks great. This is a good link for the doors http://www.streetrodderweb.com/tech/1010sr_faux_patina_brushwork/index.html

retired plumber wrote:I live in Tucson Az and things do actually rust a bit, even down here. Mother Nature patina is fine but I just didn't want to see a neat old truck end up with heavy patina (holes) in it.
Still a neat idea. Who says you can't customise with a roller?
Mike

It should be OK, but if it were me, I'd maybe want some clear over it.

Tommy Hillbilly wrote:

retired plumber wrote:I live in Tucson Az and things do actually rust a bit, even down here. Mother Nature patina is fine but I just didn't want to see a neat old truck end up with heavy patina (holes) in it.
Still a neat idea. Who says you can't customise with a roller?
Mike

It should be OK, but if it were me, I'd maybe want some clear over it.

I think ya'll are right... I'll check into some flat clear enamel.

Color sanded the left rear corner of the bed today. Goes from hideous to fauxtina with some elbow grease and 320 grit.

More color sanding photo's.

Looks great....In my humble opinion, I would not clear it. I mean if you lived in NY where I live, they dump tons of salt on the roads every winter and we all know what salt does to metal. A little rain now and then is't going to rust out your truck in a week. You and I (being 50 years old...lol) will never live long enough to see that truck rot out.

63Falconconvert wrote:Looks great....In my humble opinion, I would not clear it. I mean if you lived in NY where I live, they dump tons of salt on the roads every winter and we all know what salt does to metal. A little rain now and then is't going to rust out your truck in a week. You and I (being 50 years old...lol) will never live long enough to see that truck rot out.

I tend to agree with you. The truck is always garaged and it will not be driven in the winter at all. Here in Colorado the sun is crazy intense and about every third vehicle you see the clear coat is peeling off. I used some spray clear on my shop door and it peeled off after a year. I sure don't want that to happen.

Anybody have any experience with a quality clear coat?

Looking Great! Making me think about doing that to mine.

Did a bit more work on developing the technique for the fauxtina on my stepside bed. The bed had shiney spots from the areas that were low and didn't get sanded. I used my hand finishing sander with a green Scotchbrite attached. This helped, and was quick and easy, but there was still some gloss. I then used some full strength degreaser (Purple Power) and simply wiped it on with a shop rage, then removed it with a dry shop rag. That did the trick and was also pretty easy.

So the technique is now defined, now I just gotta find the time to do the rest of the truck. I am sure most of ya would agree that working for a livin' is way over-rated.







This last photo shows the lack of gloss of the "finished" product (the bed) vs. the as sprayed shiny fenders. The faux-tina process isn't for the faint of heart, once the gloss coat is sprayed over the rolled on primer the paint looks hideous. The sanding, scotchbrite and chemical de-glossing brings it back to some level of decency... well arguably so. I know a lot of people hate it. That's ok, variety is the spice of life and I gotta tell ya'll I am having a grand ole time working on this.

You have a from me on your truck.
Please 90% of the old car community would have a stroke if they ever got on this forum. I tell guys I'm painting my 63, of course they as are you using Dupont, PPG, Sikens I say nope, Rusto TopSide boat paint with a roller.......I think you can guess there reaction.

Love it

That has to be one of the best chevy trucks style they ever made!


Your garage is pretty cool like your set-up!

You not only thought outside the box, you crushed it and put it in the recycle bin. I love it.
Mike

Thanks for the support ya'll.

Look's awesome!!! Can't wait to see it finished!!!!

Moving on to the cab, roll-primered the back. I want to get some color on the back of the cab and the bed back on before winter.



Also removed the stock boring '65 C10 emblem and replaced it with an OEM '62 emblem.... I think the '62's have the classic old school look.

Stock



1962

I like the older emblems too.