1967 Mustang

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1967 Mustang

Post by marinecadence on December 14th 2011, 11:13 am

So...I've read, and read and read. Been putting a few things together based on some cars that I've seen on here. I have a 67 Mustang, bought it black, top was oxidized with surface rust, few bubbles here and there. After stripping everything down, found out there was a good portion of bondo used, I'm in the process of cutting and welding new pieces here and there (wheel wells/fenders). I am also knee deep in repairing the cowl (you mustang owners know what I'm talking about).

My dilemma is what color I want to go to. Like I said the car is black, I'm worried that my body work (I'm no pro) coupled with a black roll on job will lack with imperfections. I have been debating white with black or gray lemans stripes, gloss black with gray lemans (gray would almost be ghost stripes of gloss black slightly lightened). Or... Red (Massie Ferguson red, New Holland red or Allis Chalmers red) with white stripes. Trying to figure out the best color scheme with this type of paint process. I will be using the Valspar implement paint from Tractor supply, and using a hardener. The hood, trunk lid and front fenders will be done in my basement to conrol dust/temperature.

Please give me all your suggestions...or flames, need it all.
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Re: 1967 Mustang

Post by marinecadence on December 14th 2011, 11:30 am


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Re: 1967 Mustang

Post by marinecadence on December 14th 2011, 11:33 am

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Re: 1967 Mustang

Post by Tommy Hillbilly on December 14th 2011, 8:14 pm

Are those rmdhokie's old wheels?
I think it looks good in black. If it was mine, I'd lean towards a dark blue or dark green, maybe. With a light colored GT rocker stripe.

I went with white, out of concern for flaws, and I'm glad I did. My job turned out wavy because I didn't use a long enough block when I started my color sanding. And I started with a 220 wet! The lowest I could find. I was in a hurry, and being lazy. I also got away with not finishing my buffing, or painting the door jambs. I'll try to get on that next spring/summer. What I've done so far made such a dramatic difference, that I just stopped working on it, and started driving the car everyday.
That's the beauty of this. You can keep going back, and perfecting your job, long after everyone else thought you were finished and that the car looked good enough to them.

Nice looking old CJ in the garage.
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Re: 1967 Mustang

Post by cac1967 on December 14th 2011, 8:27 pm

white with red leman's stripe's would be a great combo, if you are worried about body flaw's the white will hide a lot, follow rmdhokie's thread,again his result's were awesome, just take your time and how bad is your cowl, my fastback is pictured in rmd's thread, my cowl is in decent shape , no leak's really lucky on that one, national part's depot and cj pony parts sell the cowl patch panel's and complete cowl replacement's, love you car man 67/68 is my favorite model's
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Re: 1967 Mustang

Post by marinecadence on December 15th 2011, 10:12 am

They are no his wheels, they were on there when I bought it. I'm going towards the Torque Thrust route. The drivers side cowl hat was completely rusted out, all I had to do was pick it up and pull it out, no cutting required! I have ordered the replacement, should be here in a day or two. My wife wants the car black, again, little worried about the flaws. Thanks for your input!
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Re: 1967 Mustang

Post by Tommy Hillbilly on December 15th 2011, 10:41 pm

I'd go for the black, that car looks good in black. You can always finish the job and then go back and fix flaws panel by panel. And unless they're major, most folks will never spot them.

So what's the story on the car's mechanicals?
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Re: 1967 Mustang

Post by marinecadence on December 16th 2011, 8:20 am

Its a 289 2bbl, 9 inch rear. The guy I bought it from was a mechanic...so engine is solid. Body is lacking so I have a bit more to do until color. Comments are appreciated. I think we have it narrowed down to white with gray shelby/lemans stripes or black with gray stripes.
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Re: 1967 Mustang

Post by cac1967 on December 16th 2011, 11:07 pm

I agree with the white because the black is so unforgiving, I fixed my 87 ranger after it was wrecked, changed the color from tan to black with ppg urethane single stage, I think it was dcu 3039, I definately found the few door ding's I missed, but luckily it was just my daily driver,if it had been my mustang or my falcon it would have been a real bummer, so imho I would go with the white with gray leman's stripes.
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Re: 1967 Mustang

Post by rmdhokie on December 18th 2011, 7:15 pm

cadence....nice car. It looks great black...just take your time. Black is original color? Luckily I did not have to do a cowl repair, but I know it's a time consuming and expensive repair if you don't weld yourself.
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Re: 1967 Mustang

Post by marinecadence on December 18th 2011, 9:03 pm

Half way done with cowl repair...decided to go black with dark gray stripes. Needed to paint lower cowl while its off so had to pick the color....going with Valspar tracotr/implement paint. From what I have read, has a little better UV protection. I will send pics of this cowl in progress....what a p.i.t.a
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Re: 1967 Mustang

Post by marinecadence on December 19th 2011, 12:13 pm

BTW Hokie...did you rattle can your hood and trunk undersides? Just got my repro trunk lid in, and the bottom of the hood is primed....unsure if I should just rattle can or use a foam brush. Thanks in advance
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Re: 1967 Mustang

Post by rmdhokie on December 19th 2011, 4:51 pm

marinecadence wrote:BTW Hokie...did you rattle can your hood and trunk undersides? Just got my repro trunk lid in, and the bottom of the hood is primed....unsure if I should just rattle can or use a foam brush. Thanks in advance

Yep, I rattle canned both undersides of trunk and hood. I used a foam brush for the door jams. The color match between Rusto Topside and Regular Rusto Pro was very good.
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Re: 1967 Mustang

Post by 63Falconconvert on December 29th 2011, 5:31 pm

Great looking ride, body looks super straight!
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Re: 1967 Mustang

Post by marinecadence on January 20th 2012, 11:30 am

An update...body work done, everything primed....started on fenders, front and rear aprons and trunk lid in basement. Came out HORRIBLE. Thousands of runs...I may have put it on a little to thick...I saturated the roller, pushed as much out as possible and thought it was good...I saw the runs soon after, I should have used a dry roller on them. Oh well, sanded all the runs out and gonna try again.

In case anybody has some pointers, I used 2 parts paint, 1 part m.s. and used enamel hardener...anybody have a better formula???

After a wetsand and a slightly thicker mix, had very good results...a few bubbles now that its dried, should wetsand out fine. Will post some pics after my next coat
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Re: 1967 Mustang

Post by 63Falconconvert on January 20th 2012, 7:01 pm

I was getting runs also thats why I went with a thicker mixture.
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Re: 1967 Mustang

Post by marinecadence on January 24th 2012, 5:54 pm




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Re: 1967 Mustang

Post by marinecadence on January 24th 2012, 5:55 pm



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Re: 1967 Mustang

Post by marinecadence on January 24th 2012, 5:59 pm

Just laid the 5th coat....sanded very deep this last time to get some roller marks out. Did not use penetrol on the first two coats and it showed. I'm getting alot of lint/dust after each drying time. I'm rolling these parts in the basement, so dust is a problem after sanding them down. It's a work in progress and I'm learning alot, thanks to this site.
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Re: 1967 Mustang

Post by cac1967 on January 24th 2012, 7:54 pm

Look's really good so far , It will look even better cut and buffed,keep up the great work!!!! thumbs up
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Re: 1967 Mustang

Post by marinecadence on January 24th 2012, 10:46 pm

I have full coverage after 5 coats...until I sanded the hood back out to get the roller marks out....so will have to do at least five more on it....how many coats are you guys ending up with, or is just trial and error?
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Re: 1967 Mustang

Post by cac1967 on January 24th 2012, 10:57 pm

The average number of coat's is 8-10 coat's, these are very thin coat's also,you roll 2 thin coat's then wetsand with 600 and work your way to 1500 or 2000 grit paper every 2 coat's then cut and buff. hope this help's, your car's gonna look great just take your time!!!! thumbs up
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Re: 1967 Mustang

Post by 63Falconconvert on January 25th 2012, 9:09 am

Looks good so far. It's a scary process, from your first coat to your last it really doesn't look all that good. The magic comes when you cut and buff and you see that nice mirror finish come to life.
I went with 10 coats. Easy number for me to remember, 2 then wetsand, 2 then wetsand etc.
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Re: 1967 Mustang

Post by leeready on January 25th 2012, 4:58 pm

At least put 8 coats. The last thing you want to do is burn through the paint when wet sanding. We probably have all be there. It sucks! With black on the final coat don't wet sand with anything lower than 1500. I did my hood with only 2000 on the final coat and then used some 3000 3M Grit.

The 3000 grit takes forever and feels like you're not doing anything. It's basically like a sponge. The paint will start to shine even without the compound. Or least it did for me. You should end up with a flat surface with very minimum scratches. My hood is the best looking part on my car. Very Happy


Last edited by leeready on February 7th 2012, 6:08 pm; edited 1 time in total
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Re: 1967 Mustang

Post by Tommy Hillbilly on January 26th 2012, 4:29 pm

Unfinished basement? You could hang plastic sheeting over the area where the parts are drying. You could probably just use thumbtacks, and push them right into the joists.

Or you might try getting a spray bottle full of water, and wetting down the area over the parts - or any area where you think the dust might be coming from.
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Re: 1967 Mustang

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