Satin black?

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Satin black?

Post by superdave on January 19th 2012, 1:21 pm

Has anybody had any success rolling on the satin black or semi-gloss black? I know you would have to lay the last coat on slick enough that it wouldn't require sanding and polishing since it would destroy the satin finish. I've looked all over and all I can find is people that have sprayed it.
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Re: Satin black?

Post by 63Falconconvert on January 20th 2012, 7:26 pm

What if you rolled all your coats, wetsanded as needed then do your last coat with spray cans. It may take a few ok maybe many but you would be building thickness by rolling and then you could achive the "look" with a spray can.
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Re: Satin black?

Post by superdave on January 20th 2012, 11:20 pm

63Falconconvert wrote:What if you rolled all your coats, wetsanded as needed then do your last coat with spray cans. It may take a few ok maybe many but you would be building thickness by rolling and then you could achive the "look" with a spray can.

I'm going to try to do it and if needed, spray the final coat either with cans or a panel at the time with my small compressor. Satin black was what I originally wanted to do anyway.
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Re: Satin black?

Post by 63Falconconvert on January 21st 2012, 9:21 am

I really think it can be done...good luck and keep us posted
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Re: Satin black?

Post by LV2DRFT on February 21st 2012, 5:14 pm

My dad is going to get me some flattener powder from work. I think I'll try it on my car. Check my project thread for details.
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Re: Satin black?

Post by superdave on February 21st 2012, 5:50 pm

I was able to get it to lay down super smooth by adding Penetrol, but then it dried with a gloss. I gave up on the idea of rolling a satin finish. Painting gloss red now.
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Re: Satin black?

Post by LV2DRFT on February 23rd 2012, 11:46 am

Just in case anyone in the future wants to do satin black... I'm doing it right now (rollering it) and here's what worked for me:

* I got my powder from my Dad who works at a paint company. I believe what he gave me is very similar to "One Shot" flattening agent. It's about $35 a quart at eastwood.

* The way to mix flat (for the way I like it) is 2 heaping spoonfuls of powder, 7 spoonfuls of paint, and slowly pour mineral spirits for 7 seconds... mix it up vigorously for 5 minutes in a bowl, then transfer to the paint tray. A chemist told me it's actually better if you mix up the powder in your mineral spirits first, then add your alkyd enamel to the mix.

* When dealing with flattened black, the paint lines (brush marks and edges of the foam roller) show up easier (I believe this is because it doesn't self-level as well as unflattened because the powder adds viscosity and chalkiness)... I got better results when lightly rolling back over the surfaces a bunch of times with a dry (or at least not soaked with paint) roller after letting the initial coat dry about 30 minutes.

* Do your entire paint job as normal, building up with gloss. Then make your last 3 coats or so flat mixed. After at least 6-8 coats gloss, do 2 coats flat, sand with 1200 grit, then apply your final coat on only the most perfect, ideal sunny day. Check weather.com for pollen alerts, make sure there is low wind and no pollen in the air... or use a garage.

* You should not wetsand after applying your last coat of flat, even with 1500 grit or higher. Color sanding is the first step in a 3 part process, finished with polishing and waxing. Since you can't wax, you have to leave it alone after you apply your final coat... no color sanding. If you're not happy with it, 1200 grit it and roll again until it's right. Flat black actually hides the debris well anyway.

* I'm going to experiment with polishing my last coat with turtle wax polish compound (very light abrasion) to see if it looks OK. It might add a little shininess, but as long as it doesn't make it mirror like, I'll be OK with it. If it ruins it, all I have to do is sand and roll again.

* Again.. the key is to ROLL BACK OVER your coat MANY TIMES but VERY LIGHTLY with a dry roller. Wait about 30 minutes after the initial application to do this.

This is what mine looked like after rolling one coat over 600 grit sanded surface... it actually looks fine like that, but I kept going up in grit level because that was only coat number 6 for my paintjob. But you can see it turns out great with a roller, as long as you follow the method above.






Also for cleaning it and sealing it, Swissvax makes products designed just for matte finishes. So does Dr Beasley's (google them) They are expensive, too expensive for me (I think their target market is BMW owners and MB owners and David Beckham haha).

Old school method from old Rat Rodders is as follows:

Wash with a microfiber and dish soap.
NEVER let bird poop or spills / oil stay on your paint for longer than a day or two.
Protect your cleaned surface after washing with:
Lemon Pledge (gotta be Lemon pledge haha)
OR Armor All (for matte surfaces)
OR Meguiars Spray and Mist Quick Detailer.
(NOT wax, just quick detailer... the one that says "won't leave cloudy residue")

That's what I've gained from my intense research as well as my experience doing my own flat black job (still working on it though, not finished yet)
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Re: Satin black?

Post by LV2DRFT on February 24th 2012, 5:04 pm

Anybody out there reading my last post as instructions.. please note one thing:

You WILL end up with a visually nice finish... you WILL ALSO end up with a very FRAGILE finish. The paint adheres very well and won't flake off, but if you run your fingernail over it, you will end up with permanent marks that won't come out. The only way to get them out is to polish them.. polishing them gives your paint a gloss level of about 80% of what you would get just applying gloss paint... except for the fact that ALL of your polishing / sanding marks are about 15 times more visible. Definitely not a good idea... I'm working on a solution by asking more experienced members... i'll post the results. Hopefully, together, with all the knowledge of our community we can come up with a way to roll on flat black with a DURABLE finish... even a finish half as durable as gloss would be fine with me... right now. Hopefully we can come up with something that works... but the above method definitely will get you a "nice LOOKING flat black."

.... I realized if you dig your nail in deep into even normal rustoleum, it will still scratch a little. But after polishing and sanding you get the best hardness, like superdave mentioned.

I give up too because I like to be able to touch my paint. Gloss it is


Last edited by LV2DRFT on February 24th 2012, 8:37 pm; edited 1 time in total
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Re: Satin black?

Post by superdave on February 24th 2012, 6:07 pm

I gave up with trying to get an acceptable finish with satin black with a roller. I rolled on 5 coats of the satin black and never could get a finish without major flaws. I consider that primer, and now have 6 coats of gloss red on it. Penetrol in the satin allowed it to lay down smooth, but then it was glossy. I think it's just the nature of it to need to be sprayed to get an even coverage. The magic of the rolling is the sanding and polishing.
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Re: Satin black?

Post by LV2DRFT on March 15th 2012, 6:20 pm

+1 for superdave's comment--

I tried everything under the sun to get a good finish with flat black and a roller. I got it to roll on nicely, but could never solve that fingernail scratch problem without polishing it. Polishing it created a VERY ugly finish. No matter how much detailing I did, the finish looked scratchy and blotchy....

Gloss it is for me too!!!
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