1997 Jeep TJ Sport-- Accident Restoration and Black Topside

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1997 Jeep TJ Sport-- Accident Restoration and Black Topside

Post by LV2DRFT on February 5th 2012, 3:54 pm

My TJ has been involved in a couple fender benders. She has taken every beating like a champ, and when I had to decide whether to sell her to the insurance company or keep her, I just couldn't let her go... I'm starting this project as a complete rookie, knowing nothing about cars other than the bare basics. Upon doing this project, I am really falling back in love with my Jeep, having a new found respect for it, and have been quite surprised at how "learnable" everything has been (especially with support from all the generous and supportive members on RolledOn and JeepForum). I'm doing this project a little redneck, as you will see, but for how old she is, and my budget I believe it's the smartest way. Also, redneck or not, I'm just happy to learn, be a part of the Jeep community and Rolled On community, and there's kind of a sense of pride in doing something yourself (even if it might take longer to do) without going overboard on cost. My motto for this project: "it CAN be done!"

Before:










I'm going to do my own bodywork and then rustoleum paint job. Since I don't have access to a welder or sheet metal tools, and am on a limited budget, I'm not going to fully repair the gash in the side. I'm going to pop the door out as much as I can and fill in the rest with Bondo. And for the gash under the door, I'm going to use my wire drill bit to cut out the rust, then hit it with Rust Reformer before paint. I found some excellent diamond plate from jeepdiamondplate.com that should cover the rocker damage well enough... no cutting or welding on my part, probably a little drilling and am going to fill the leak spots with urethane caulk.

Mechanical repairs:
The accident to the front caused the upper radiator hose to shift back and touch the serpentine belt, splitting it eventually. When I noticed this, I went ahead and flushed the radiator until all the old contamination was gone, and installed a new upper hose. It's got enough clearance from the belt now but I'm watching it carefully. I noticed a "clunking" noise when turning slowly over speedbumps, and picked up some info about TJ suspensions. I checked everything carefully, and determined the cause was the driver side sway bar link being popped. I'm going to change this out ($20 for the part plus $5 for the T55 torx bit) While being down there carefully checking the suspension components, I also noticed a tear in my differential breather hose. I mended it with electrical tape :-) Should be fine as it is just an air vent line. I'm keeping an eye on it though. Alignment is a little off now, but I'm lucky to have a lifetime alignment contract with a local shop (if you can find anyone that still offers this, take them up on it! It has paid for itself and then some already!) I think I'll take it in for realignment after everything else is completed...

Other than the above mentioned, here's my buy list:

New fender $100... smart JF members told me in another post only go with CAPA certified. Thank God I listened!
http://www.discountbodyparts.com/catalog/?N=0&uts=true&Ntt=jeep+fenders&dbpcid=gooppc

Front Driver's Fender Flare $31.16 ... no shipping because I'm picking it up
http://www.discountbodyparts.com/catalog/?N=1557+4294946915+4294963746+9427&Nr=OR%28brand:R eplacement,brand:Kool%20Vue,brand:Perfect%20Fit,br and:US%20Auto%20Parts%29

Clear corner turn signal kit $47 after shipping ... cheaper than buying driver's side replacements
http://www.ebay.com/itm/CLEAR-CORNER-TURN-SIGNAL-KIT-97-06-JEEP-WRANGLER-TJ-/230716539450?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories &vxp=mtr&hash=item35b7c7023a

Hood catches $31.81 after shipping and tax
http://www.quadratec.com/products/13004_10X_PG.htm
(decided to go with the stock replacement instead for budget)

New front bumper $25
http://orangecounty.craigslist.org/pts/2752729099.html

Front bumper end caps $12 after shipping
Amazon Amazon

Rocker guards to cover side damage $66 after shipping
http://www.ebay.com/itm/1997-2006-Jeep-TJ-Wrangler-Rocker-Guards-WOW-Free-Entry-guards-GREAT-DEAL-/120805626224?hash=item1c20939170&item=120805626224 &pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr

Rustoleum Black Marine Paint (3 quarts) about $40 after tax
http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1v/R-100184862/h_d2/ProductDisplay?selectedCatgry=SEARCH+ALL&jspStoreD ir=hdus&catalogId=10053&navFlow=3&keyword=rustoleu m+topside+black&Ntpc=1&langId=-1&Nu=P_PARENT_ID&storeId=10051&Ntpr=1&ddkey=Sear ch

Krylon Fusion paint for fender flares $4
http://www.google.com/products/catalog?q=krylon+fusion&hl=en&client=firefox-a&hs=B31&rls=org.mozilla:en-USfficial&prmd=imvns&bav=on.2,or.r_gc.r_pw.,cf.o sb&biw=1152&bih=725&um=1&ie=UTF-8&tbm=shop&cid=4808345642023151922&sa=X&ei=S8cTT-WlG5TJsQK0tf3ZAw&ved=0CH0QnBUoADAA

Tack cloths $6
http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1v/R-100295475/h_d2/ProductDisplay?langId=-1&storeId=10051&catalogId=10053

High density foam rollers $10 probably $15 with the handle
http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1v/R-100164975/h_d2/ProductDisplay?langId=-1&storeId=10051&catalogId=10053

Mineral spirits $10
http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1v/R-100677231/h_d2/ProductDisplay?langId=-1&storeId=10051&catalogId=10053

Wet/Dry Sandpaper, $8.20 for qty 10
http://www.ebay.com/itm/10-Sheets-Sandpaper-WET-DRY-9-x-11-You-Pick-Grits-100-2500-Samd-paper-/160695235026?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item256a2e b1d2
60 grit (1)
400 grit (2)
600 grit (2)
800 grit (2)
1000 grit (2)
1200 grit (1)

Rust reformer $5.64
http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1v/R-202623091/h_d2/ProductDisplay?langId=-1&storeId=10051&catalogId=10053

Primer (O'Reilly Auto cheap brand) $4

Front windows $59
http://www.ebay.com/itm/UPPER-SKINS-FRONT-WINDOWS-97-06-JEEP-WRANGLER-TJ-NEW-/230482881364?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories &fits=Make%3AJeep&vxp=mtr&hash=item35a9d9ab54


Last edited by LV2DRFT on February 14th 2012, 7:06 pm; edited 3 times in total
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Re: 1997 Jeep TJ Sport-- Accident Restoration and Black Topside

Post by LV2DRFT on February 5th 2012, 3:55 pm

When it's all done, the body's going to be black, wheels black, and I'm still debating on whether or not to leave the diamond plate, headlight bezels, etc. shiny or paint them black too. I originally wanted to mix http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/show_product.do?pid=64 Interlux Brightside in Sea Green and Yellow, hoping to get a charteuse color, use that as the main color and black as the accent color. I saw Sahara Matt's build (on Jeepforum.com) with a similar strategy using light blue as the main color and it looked AWESOME! However the risk was too high, not knowing how the two colors would actually blend together. Interlux wouldn't provide me with a sample size or a photo of how the two colors would look mixed together. They just said to go and buy two quarts (almost $80 in cost after shipping) and to me on my budget, I couldn't justify the price risk if it turned out not looking how I wanted it to. So $45 total for 3 quarts of Rustoleum Topside black is a risk free choice and I'll still be happy with the results.

Did a little redneck body work today. I didn't have much faith to begin with, but it's amazing what you can do with a heavy hammer, big bench clamp, channel locks and 2 hours of time. Mostly just hammered peaks in flat where there was damage, then checked by lining up the side of the car with my dominant eye. I bent the damaged corner of the hood until it looked close enough to the other side with channel locks. I can't believe this worked, but I also hammered the hinge of the hood back with duct tape over my "force distributor" (steel bench clamp), and put duct tape over the prying end of my hammer and pried the opposite side of the hood out until the hood was straight again... it used to hang over the damaged side by about 2 inches, now the difference is barely noticeable and good enough for me because I don't want to break anything :-) I also tried to pop the dent in the passenger door out after removing the interior panel. As it was, the dent was just a little too deep for me to feel comfortable bondo-ing over it. So I used my force distributor and banged away at the inside until I changed the physical properties of the dent. I mainly went to work on the crease that causes the dent to keep popping in and popping out. I managed to take about an inch out of the dent's depth... hopefully what I have now is shallow enough to bondo. I have plenty of time anyway, so when I get to that step, I'll just do more thin layers of filler instead of less big ones, hopefully to avoid cracking. Either way, it won't take as much filler and its at a point where you can't pop the sheet metal back and forth, which was my main goal.

While I'm rallying up the rest of my supplies, I want to take a moment to mention Barry over at www.jeepdiamondplate.com. During the research stage of this project, I talked to many people and asked many questions. What I've found is that a lot of these guys just want to make a sale, then and there, and don't consider that people ask questions first, then do some research, then come back to make the purchase. Barry is definitely the best at understanding this (and he has the absolute best price on what I need by far). If you are thinking about plating your Jeep, you should seriously consider talking to him. He has been so helpful.


Last edited by LV2DRFT on February 5th 2012, 4:04 pm; edited 1 time in total
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Re: 1997 Jeep TJ Sport-- Accident Restoration and Black Topside

Post by LV2DRFT on February 5th 2012, 3:56 pm

Installed the fender today! It was actually quite easy from a technical standpoint. Just unbolt everything attached to it, starting with the window fluid, Remove four bolts from the front by the grill, three more behind the wheel, four attaching it to the next panel by the firewall (these are kind of in a cramped spot, my brother in law showed up at just the right time to help turn the ratchet while I guided it in for the middle bolt), and four on the back of the wheel well (attaching it to the HCU tray bracket). The front bolts were rusted on like crazy though. I used Loctite Freeze and Release to help make it easier. I found that removing the headlight exposed the back of the bolt, which is what I what I needed to get at with the freeze spray. A few minor war wounds from not wearing gloves like I should have when fighting those sticky bolts :-)



New fender after installation... not bad for $100




Passenger door after beating the dents out the improper way with a hammer and steel bench clamp. I'm not concerned about wrinkling the metal as this dent was so deep a body shop would have definitely just replaced the door skin... but I'm going for budget so I'm trying to get it as flush as possible with the rest of that side, then going to grind it down, treat with rust reformer, bondo, primer then hopefully have a flush paintable surface.



Got a couple of fill layers of bondo down over the door. We'll see how it sands down. The door handle is completely popped in and I'm not going to try and get it out, but I'll go for as flush as possible. Compared to before, this is a lot better IMO, and for all intents and purposes should be good enough... it's a Jeep after all, doesn't need to be showroom :-)
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Re: 1997 Jeep TJ Sport-- Accident Restoration and Black Topside

Post by LV2DRFT on February 5th 2012, 3:58 pm



Passenger side rocker gash after redneck body work. I hammered the snot out of it, pried at the door at the bottom, hammered my bench clamp into the crevasse inside then pried out to try and get the rocker as close to flush with the rest of that side as possible. The bottom still looks hideous, but that won't matter because it will be completely covered by diamond plate. The top is what I was concerned with. If you look carefully you can see the top (where the bottom of the door comes to rest) is much more flush.





The easiest way to install diamond plate (and body kits on Hondas)... just kidding!
This is a mockup of how it will fit in.
... if they only knew what I was hiding under there hope




You can see my jury-rigged job isn't quite perfect when looking at the profile view. No worries, that's why diamond plate is awesome. It's like knockdown for walls, the texture hides imperfections! When I screw it all in place after paint, it will press up and fill those valleys nicely (I tested it with my thumb)
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Re: 1997 Jeep TJ Sport-- Accident Restoration and Black Topside

Post by superdave on February 5th 2012, 4:36 pm

You can buy a slide hammer at pretty much any parts store on the cheap and get that rocker a whole lot closer to where it should be. You'll have to drill some holes to screw the hammer into, but with that diamond plate it won't matter a whole lot.
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Re: 1997 Jeep TJ Sport-- Accident Restoration and Black Topside

Post by LV2DRFT on February 6th 2012, 1:41 am

superdave wrote:You can buy a slide hammer at pretty much any parts store on the cheap and get that rocker a whole lot closer to where it should be. You'll have to drill some holes to screw the hammer into, but with that diamond plate it won't matter a whole lot.

Thanks for the suggestion. I'm happy with the results, and figured "why spend extra money when I'm not doing it the 'professional way' anyway?" (the professional way being cut and weld) I originally wanted to use body panel adhesive to hold the plating in too... but again, it begs the question... I included a redneck disclaimer at the beginning :-) I'm going cheap but effective on this one haha. I think your recommended tool would have helped me out a great bit, but it's already done, the gash would still be there, and won't be noticeable to the unsuspecting eye so at least I got lucky :-)

Thanks for the tip though, I'm sure there will be more people who read this and are looking for ways to repair their damage before rolling on some paint!
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Re: 1997 Jeep TJ Sport-- Accident Restoration and Black Topside

Post by LV2DRFT on February 7th 2012, 7:02 pm



final fill layer after i went over it with a metal file





Door is starting to look flat again when attached. I noticed a few little spots where you can see some bondo lines, etc. so I'm putting another feather layer on next




I was getting frustrated sanding the finishing touches on my bondo job, and had a thought... why not use the wetsanding technique I was going to do later on for the roll on paint? Oh yes this is DEFINITELY the way to go. 100 grit wetsanding gave me much better results!




Unintentional pink camo... oh YEAH! huh
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Re: 1997 Jeep TJ Sport-- Accident Restoration and Black Topside

Post by wantajav on February 7th 2012, 8:00 pm

I hear ya about the body work.

YES we would all like to have a Tig/MIG in our garages and an unlimited budget etc....not reality for lots of us.

All I can add to this is: for a mega dent you cannot pull out consider some fiberglass /mat then skim it with body filler so you don't have a 3 inches thick layer of bondo on there, or use aluminum filler USC All-metal ask your NAPA guy which does not shrink/crack. Looks great so far keep up the good work
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Re: 1997 Jeep TJ Sport-- Accident Restoration and Black Topside

Post by Tommy Hillbilly on February 8th 2012, 1:44 am

Good idea, the duct tape on the hammer claw, and dolly.

I'm a little concerned about the door skin. You don't want it flexing much, because it might cause cracking. As long as it's nice and rigid, and there is no "oil-canning" action left, I'd probably run with it. I might not let anyone lean against it though...
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Re: 1997 Jeep TJ Sport-- Accident Restoration and Black Topside

Post by leeready on February 8th 2012, 4:27 am

Keep it up man. You're doing a good job so far. Seeing stuff like this makes me want to go outside and go to work. Smile
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Re: 1997 Jeep TJ Sport-- Accident Restoration and Black Topside

Post by LV2DRFT on February 8th 2012, 12:36 pm

wantajav wrote:I hear ya about the body work.

YES we would all like to have a Tig/MIG in our garages and an unlimited budget etc....not reality for lots of us.

All I can add to this is: for a mega dent you cannot pull out consider some fiberglass /mat then skim it with body filler so you don't have a 3 inches thick layer of bondo on there, or use aluminum filler USC All-metal ask your NAPA guy which does not shrink/crack. Looks great so far keep up the good work

Yeah I am a little concerned about it shrinking or cracking too. I did a ton of research on the art of bondo before doing it, hoping I could get the best result. I made sure:
* Metal was prepped by scuffing with wire brush (trust me it was REALLY ready for the bondo)
* Metal was free of oil or contaminants by cleaning thoroughly with dish soap.
* Metal was fully dry, I even used a blow dryer on it before bondo. Also temperature outside when applying was 75 degrees, sun was shining directly on the metal, metal on the door was well heated before application.
* I only applied fill layers up to 1/8 inch thick at a time. Sanded and primed inbetween every new layer.
* Bondo was well mixed and the color matched the salmon color of the spreader... no contaminates as I used a fresh piece of clean scrap plastic for mixing every layer.

Also, at the deepest valley I had to fill, the bondo was probably one inch thick when all was done. Most of the door it was between 1/4 inch to 1/2 inch thick. I also made sure that the door was structurally sound (although I'm sure it didn't look it from the photo) before using body filler. I beat the creases out and tested it by giving it about 20 lbs of pressure on either side with my hand. When it looked close to flush and I couldn't move the metal with my own hands, I started bondo.

The cool thing about rolling on rustoleum is that if something gets messed up later on, the repair is cheap and simple! Even the fiberglass or metal body filler was out of my budget (versus a $20 gallon of bondo haha). The prep for the door is already 100% complete, so I'm kind of all in now and it's too late to change strategies.. but if anybody has any tips or hints to help stop the bondo from cracking or shrinking before I paint, I'd appreciate it. Should I let it sit in the sun a few days first? Should I hit it for an hour with a blow dryer to try and "make it shrink" before I have paint over it? It actually seems very solid to me just from looking at it, but who knows, maybe something happens to it further down the road?

Thanks!
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Re: 1997 Jeep TJ Sport-- Accident Restoration and Black Topside

Post by Tommy Hillbilly on February 8th 2012, 3:54 pm

[quote="LV2DRFT"]
wantajav wrote:I beat the creases out and tested it by giving it about 20 lbs of pressure on either side with my hand. When it looked close to flush and I couldn't move the metal with my own hands, I started bondo.
Sounds good to go.



And just in case it isn't:
The cool thing about rolling on rustoleum is that if something gets messed up later on, the repair is cheap and simple!
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Re: 1997 Jeep TJ Sport-- Accident Restoration and Black Topside

Post by LV2DRFT on February 8th 2012, 9:01 pm



BONDO MONSTER!!! Those marks under her left eye are dried up tears btw...
I'll let that dry well tonight then go sculpt and wetsand tomorrow. I'm thinking I'll be able to lay down my first layer of paint tomorrow afternoon if all goes well.
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Re: 1997 Jeep TJ Sport-- Accident Restoration and Black Topside

Post by LV2DRFT on February 10th 2012, 8:13 pm



Door after primer. Not perfect but good enough for me to call it paint-ready!
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Re: 1997 Jeep TJ Sport-- Accident Restoration and Black Topside

Post by LV2DRFT on February 10th 2012, 8:18 pm



Hood after two grueling days of fill, sculpt, feather, repeat. I also took care of several other dents and dings throughout the car but the door and hood were by far the most complicated.

** Also I have a question for anyone who can help... take a look at the two above pictures please and let me know if you think my "surface prep" for the non-bondo areas looks good enough to start rolling. (ignore the water marks... I have to clean it again because there was a lot of dust from grinding)... I grinded fine scratches into the clear coat (sometimes base coat by accident) with a wire brush bit on my power drill... can I go ahead and start rolling after a good clean and tack cloth? Or should I hit it harder first?

Thanks!
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Re: 1997 Jeep TJ Sport-- Accident Restoration and Black Topside

Post by cac1967 on February 10th 2012, 8:22 pm

I posted on your question in the exterior section. thumbs up
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Re: 1997 Jeep TJ Sport-- Accident Restoration and Black Topside

Post by LV2DRFT on February 10th 2012, 8:25 pm



More specifically... Laughing
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Re: 1997 Jeep TJ Sport-- Accident Restoration and Black Topside

Post by LV2DRFT on February 10th 2012, 8:28 pm

cac1967 wrote:I would block sand the whole vehicle with 400-600 grit paper, the brush mark's will show in the final paint job, just my 2 cents

cac just helped me out on my other thread. I'm going to sand with 400 grit over the whole car before painting.
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Re: 1997 Jeep TJ Sport-- Accident Restoration and Black Topside

Post by LV2DRFT on February 11th 2012, 3:25 am

If anybody else is reading this for insight on starting their own project, learn from me please. There is NO NEED to use a wire ANYTHING for prep. The only reason I did that is because it suggested to do that on the can of Topside. Wetsanding with 400 grit actually took off more paint, did it faster, and obviously more evenly / less risky.

Thanks for saving my paint job cac1967!
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Re: 1997 Jeep TJ Sport-- Accident Restoration and Black Topside

Post by LV2DRFT on February 11th 2012, 5:31 am



Applied Duplicolor Engine Enamel Graber Green to the rocker guards and bezels. I also sprayed inside the Jeep bars to see if it would look good...
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Re: 1997 Jeep TJ Sport-- Accident Restoration and Black Topside

Post by cac1967 on February 13th 2012, 1:05 am

You are very welcome lvdrift!!!! that's what we are all here for , glad I could help. thumbs up
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Re: 1997 Jeep TJ Sport-- Accident Restoration and Black Topside

Post by LV2DRFT on February 13th 2012, 6:15 pm

I finished stripping down anything else that was bolted on... I'm not going pro-level with removing every hinge, window sealer, etc. But I think I've got it exposed enough to make me happy. "It's a Jeep anyway" has now become my favorite excuse It's true what they say that prep work will take at least twice as long as you expect it to! Hopefully it will pay off. I hit every surface I'm going to paint with 400 grit wet, then washed it 3 times with dish soap. I painted the grill grabber green. I'm gonna paint over the front with black, and keep the green behind it on the inside of the bars. If it looks stupid I can always just paint over it, but I think I'm on to something here... we'll see...

P.S. I'm ignoring the inside for this run (with the exception of the bars) Anything below the top of the tub I'll paint later after the entire exterior is done (I've got too many Jeep parts sitting around my house right now and don't think I can handle removing anything else without losing my screws haha)











Wish me luck, I'm going to get the base coat on right now. My shammy has been soaking for an hour so I'd say it's clean. Going to do a quick mist rinse with a spray bottle and dry with the shammy, then wipe down with a tack cloth. Then I'm going to mix my black Rustoleum Topside 50/50 with mineral spirits, and roll on thinned coat number 1 of 8-10. The plan for painting will be roll on (thinned 50/50) two coats, then wetsand with 400, two coats, wetsand 600, two coats, wetsand 800, two coats, wetsand 1000, two coats, wetsand 1200, then let it dry a few months (so the paint can fully gas out) then finish with a good polish with Turtle Wax polishing compound, buff and wax. If anybody has any suggestions or alterations to this plan, please let me know! (obviously a first-timer)

While I'm letting the paint dry I'll be using the leftover black Topside to paint my wheels.
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Lessons Learned...

Post by LV2DRFT on February 13th 2012, 9:05 pm

So far it's been a curse. I guess I should have waited out the bad weather today... I waited for it to get sunny out and the rain clouds to disappear, and start painting. Weather was nice for an hour so I got started. As soon as I finished my first section, stupid wind kicked up like crazy and blew pollen all over my paint. I finished about 1/3 of the layer and gave up for the day haha. The best thing about rolling, however, is that all I have to do is wet sand it down tomorrow then start again! And at least I taught myself a few lessons today so tomorrow will go smoother :-)
1) Oil paint needs to stay outside at all times. I wasted a lot of mineral spirits cleaning up my kitchen sink and countertop.
2) Check your local forecast for the day to see if it will be windy. Even though you can easily sand out some trash that sticks to the paint while it dries, gusts of wind blowing a bunch of small yellow balls all over the place is just a little bit too much to handle... although I thought it kind of looked like a metallic yellow flake job :-)
3) Don't attempt to mix with a cooking measuring cup. The paint sticks to the inside of the cup and you can't even see what level you're at anyway... not to mention it's a bear to clean up! Next time I'm going with the "slowly add mineral spirits and mix until it takes 3 seconds to start dripping" method I saw on YouTube.
4) Don't add too much paint to the tray before mixing mineral spirits. I had way too much paint in there at first and then tried to pour in mineral spirits, realizing too late that matching the amount would have overfilled the tray. Had to waste some paint that way. I also noticed that even though this stuff takes a while to dry, it only takes about 1 hour to become "hard to work with." Tomorrow I'm going with a little at a time, finishing a portion of the car, then mixing some more... not trying to start with enough to do the whole car in one shot.
5) Do all the nooks and crannies FIRST with a foam brush. Doing them after rollering causes unnecessary drips over your flat metal surfaces.

... hopefully my dumbass moments will help someone down the road learn what not to do Rolling Eyes
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Re: 1997 Jeep TJ Sport-- Accident Restoration and Black Topside

Post by cac1967 on February 14th 2012, 12:18 am

Lvdrift, remember the best way to learn is just do it , if you mess it up you just fix it , by learning to fix your mistakes it makes you better at anything you do , learning at the school of hard knock's is how I learned about paint and body work at the age of 13, keep at it, you are gaining valuable knowledge!!!!!!! thumbs up
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Re: 1997 Jeep TJ Sport-- Accident Restoration and Black Topside

Post by LV2DRFT on February 14th 2012, 2:25 am

cac1967 wrote:Lvdrift, remember the best way to learn is just do it , if you mess it up you just fix it , by learning to fix your mistakes it makes you better at anything you do , learning at the school of hard knock's is how I learned about paint and body work at the age of 13, keep at it, you are gaining valuable knowledge!!!!!!! thumbs up

Thanks! Made me feel a lot better haha. I was convinced the wind going crazy right after I started was some kind of karma for putting my paint job before cleaning my house Smile
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Re: 1997 Jeep TJ Sport-- Accident Restoration and Black Topside

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